Thursday, July 1, 1847

On the Green River, Wyoming:

The pioneers started to cross over the Green River. One of the rafts did not work very well because the logs were waterlogged. They went to work, to construct another raft. The wind blew hard, causing the work to be stopped in the afternoon, and only fourteen wagons were brought across. They tried to swim the cattle across, but had great difficulty. The second raft was completed by the evening.

More of the pioneers came down with Mountain Fever, including Clara Decker Young, John Greene,¹ William Clayton, Ezra T. Benson, George A. Smith, George Wardell, and Norton Jacob. Those who had been sick the day before were much better, so it appeared that the violent pain and fever usually only lasted for a day. So far, about twenty of the pioneers had taken ill with the mysterious illness.

Samuel Brannan continued efforts to convince the brethren that California was the land of Zion for the Saints. He told them that John Sutter, of Sutter’s Fort, wished to have the Saints settle near him in the Sacramento region. Brother Brannan tried to paint a bleak picture of the Rocky Mountain region by saying that he saw more timber on the Green River where they now were than anywhere on his route since he left California.

Joseph Hancock killed an antelope.

The Mormon Ferry, Wyoming:

The ferrymen crossed across fifty‑six wagons for three emigration companies and performed $12.85 worth of blacksmithing. Appleton Harmon wrote: “We were all very tired and wanted rest.” They learned that one company with thirty‑five wagons went up the river and crossed over using one of the rafts that the pioneers had built.

On the Loup Fork, Nebraska:

The morning was cold and windy as the second pioneer company worked to cross over the more than five hundred wagons. The river was about a half mile wide and shallow, but the bottoms were full of quicksand. Perrigrine Sessions wrote: “[We] had to drive all our cattle several times across to tamp the quicksand so that we could cross our wagons.” They had to double the teams on the wagons. They traveled away from the river, head back to the Platte. John Taylor’s company went eight miles and Jedediah M. Grant’s company camped three miles behind. A few buffalo were spotted for the first time during the day. Isaac C. Haight wrote: “So we pass over rivers, hills and plains as though all was a smooth plain.”

Winter Quarters, Nebraska:

A son, Don Carlos Johnson, was born to Aaron and Jane Scott Johnson.

Sources:

“Jesse W. Crosby Journal,” typescript, BYU, 34; Cook, Joseph C. Kingsbury, 117; The Personal Writings of Eliza Roxcy Snow, 182; “Diary of Lorenzo Dow Young,” Utah Historical Quarterly, 14:163; “Albert P. Rockwood Journal,” typescript, BYU, 60; Kenney, ed., Wilford Woodruff’s Journal, 3:222; Bagley, ed., The Pioneer Camp of the Saints, 216; “Isaac C. Haight Journal,” typescript, 41

Friday, July 2, 1847

On the Green River, Wyoming:

Forty‑seven wagons crossed over the river during the day. The horse and cattle were taken over the river during the morning with some difficulty. The day was very hot and the mosquitoes continued to be terrible. Several trout were caught near the ferry. One weighed more than seven pounds. Thomas Bullock saw a heap of nine buffalo skulls in one place.

The Twelve and others met in council at a nearby grove and decided to send three or four men back to pilot the next pioneer company along their way. Each of the brethren wrote down their views regarding what counsel should be given to the second pioneer group. Samuel Brannan continued to promote California as the promised land. He said that the oats grew wild and did not need to be cultivated. Clovers grew as high as a horse’s belly. Salmon in the San Joaquin River were 10‑12 pounds.

Independence Rock, Wyoming:

Captain James Brown’s detachments of the Mormon Battalion and Mississippi Saints probably camped at Independence Rock on this day. Abner Blackburn noted that the rock was “a huge mass of granite which covers several acres of ground with hundreds of names marked on its huge sides.”

Between Loup Fork and the Platte River, Nebraska:

The Perrigrine Sessions company traveled twenty miles during the day and camped without wood and water. A storm blew through, dropping some much needed rain water, but it also brought wind that beat against the wagons with force. Eliza R. Snow wrote: “The prairie very rolling we only ascend one ridge to come in sight of another, till about 2 o’clock when our gradual descent gave us a view of the tops of trees which skirt the river before us.” The companies traveled six abreast during a portion of the day. A cannon being drawn by the Edward Hunter company was found by Charles C. Rich abandoned on the trail with the wagon carriage broken and the tongue gone. The wagon was repaired and the cannon was brought along. A thunder shower rolled in during the late afternoon.

Sources:

Howard Egan Diary, Pioneering the West, 90; Kenney, ed., Wilford Woodruff’s Journal, 3:222; Bagley, ed., The Pioneer Camp of the Saints, 216‑17; Smart, ed., Mormon Midwife, 89; The Personal Writings of Eliza Roxcy Snow, 182; Bagley, ed., Frontiersman: Abner Blackburn’s Narrative, 60

Saturday, July 3, 1847

On the Green River, Wyoming:

A storm delayed the rafting over of wagons, but by the late afternoon, all of the wagons were safely across. One of the rafts was hauled up the east side of the river and stowed for the next pioneer company to use. The pioneers resumed their journey in the afternoon, traveled three miles and camped on the Green River. The grass was good, but there were dense swarms of mosquitoes making it miserable. Most of the camp was recovering from the strange bout of mountain fever that struck almost half of the company. A guide board was put up a mile from Green River that stated it was 340 miles from Fort Laramie.

Norton Jacob recorded: “After arriving in camp, Bro. Heber came to visit me and advised me to be baptised. So I went down to the water and Charles Harper baptised me for the restoration of my health which was confirmed upon me by Brethren Kimball, Doct. Richards, Markum Barney and Charles [Harper]. The administration had the desired effect and broke my fever.”

A meeting was held in the evening and volunteers were asked to go back, meet the second pioneer company, and to act as guides. Preference was given to those who had families in the next company. Those who volunteered were: Phinehas H. Young, Aaron Farr, Eric Glines, Rodney Badger, and George Woodward.² Brigham Young stated that he wished that a dozen men would have volunteered. Since there were not enough spare horses for each of them, they were given the “Revenue Cutter” wagon to carry their provisions. They started to make preparations to return. President Young announced he would travel with these five men in the morning back to the Green River, but he wanted the company to hold a Sabbath meeting in the morning. “I want to have you pray a little and talk a little and sing a little and have a good long meeting, all except those who guard the teams, I want them to mind their work.”

On the Sweetwater, Wyoming:

Captain James Brown’s detachments of the Mormon Battalion and Mississippi Saints passed by Devil’s Gate and camped along the Sweetwater. Abner Blackburn wrote that some of the men were afraid to go through Devil’s Gate “for fear they might land in the bad place.” Like the pioneers before them, they traveled around the gate and over a ridge. Brother Blackburn wrote that they came “into a most beautyful valley carpeted with green grass and herds of buffalo and a few elk and some deer grazing on its rich meadows.” He marveled at the mountain of granite that ran parallel with the river without vegetation, and remarked “The like I never seen before. They must have run short of material when it was contracted for.”

Mormon Ferry, Wyoming:

Jim Bridger arrived at the Mormon Ferry at 11 a.m., and presented to Thomas Grover a letter of introduction from Brigham Young (see June 29, 1847). With him, were four more Mormon Battalion soldiers who were on furlough and were returning to Council Bluffs. A company of eight bringing mail from Oregon arrived near sundown with pack horses and mules. They had been traveling from Oregon since May 5. A letter was sent with Jim Bridger to be take to Fort Laramie for the next pioneer company notifying them that the ferry was going to be kept in operation until they arrived.

Between Loup Fork and the Platte River, Nebraska:

The second company of pioneers again rejoined the trail created by Brigham Young’s company and camped on a stream within view of the Platte River. They traveled about fourteen miles. Brother Russell found a bucket near the trail that he had given to Heber C. Kimball. Martin Dewitt, of the Perrigrine Sessions company, broke his arm during the night, while wrestling. Patty Sessions took out her stove and burned old Indian wickiups in it. Antelope was spotted by some men for the first time.

Summer Quarters, Nebraska:

Seventy‑three-year‑old Sarah Lytle, Nancy Lee, Mary Lane, Julia Woolsey, and some children started out to Winter Quarters with Allanson Allen. Along the way, the wagon tipped over into Mire Creek. Sarah Lytle was terribly injured. Her hips were disjointed and her bowles bruised. The others did not receive any injuries. Samuel Gully, returning from Winter Quarters, delivering the news of the accident to John D. Lee, who immediately sent another wagon and team to bring the sisters and children back to camp.

Council Bluffs, Iowa:

Roswell Stevens, age seventy-five, died.³

Sources:

Cook, Joseph C. Kingsbury, 118‑19; The Personal Writings of Eliza Roxcy Snow, 182; Bagley, ed., Frontiersman: Abner Blackburn’s Narrative, 60 Journals of John D. Lee, 184; Appleton Milo Harmon Goes West, 38; Watson, ed., The Orson Pratt Journals, 437; “Erastus Snow Journal Excerpts,” Improvement Era 15:248; Kenney, ed., Wilford Woodruff’s Journal, 3:223; Whitney, History of Utah, 1:318; “Luke S. Johnson Journal,” typescript, BYU, 15; Smart, ed., Mormon Midwife, 89; “Norton Jacob Journal,” typescript, 101

Sunday, July 4, 1847

On the Green River, Wyoming:

Norton Jacob recognized Independence day in his journal by writing: “This is Uncle Sam’s day of Independence. Well we are independent of all the powers of the gentiles, and that’s enough for us.”

Brigham Young, Heber C. Kimball, Wilford Woodruff, Charles Harper, and others traveled back to the Green River with the five brethren who were heading back to help guide the second pioneer company. They were instructed to choose one of their number to help guide the members of the battalion.

When they arrived at the river, they saw thirteen horsemen on the other side with their baggage and one of the rafts. To the joy of the brethren, they discovered that the men were members of the Mormon Battalion from Pueblo, led by Sergeant Thomas S. Williams, who had been sent ahead by Amasa Lyman. They were pursuing some thieves who had stolen a dozen horses. The thieves had gone on the Fort Bridger and they hoped to get the horses back. They said that the whole detachment of about 140 men (also women and children) was about a seven days’ journey to the east. One of the soldiers, William Walker, joined the company of five men hoping to meet his family in the second pioneer company.⁴

Wilford Woodruff wrote: “We drew up the raft & crossed them all over but one who returned with our pilots to meet the company. When we met it was truly a harty greeting & shaking of hands. They accompanied us into camp and all were glad to meet.” The pioneers greeted them with three cheers and “shanking hands to perfection.” Next, Brigham Young led another cheer by shouting, “Hosannah! Hosannah! Give glory to God and the Lamb, Amen.” All joined in the cheer.

While the brethren were away at the river, the rest of the pioneers met for a public worship meeting, in the circle of wagons, under the direction of the bishops in the camp. One of Robert Crow’s oxen died during the afternoon from eating poison weeds.

William Clayton wrote: “On the other side the river there is a range of singular sandy buttes perfectly destitute of vegetation, and on the sides can be seen from here, two caves which are probably inhabited by wild bears. The view is pleasant and interesting.”

The men from the battalion spent the night with the camp. Several traders passed by the camp at dusk. The Twelve met together to read letters from Amasa Lyman and Captain James Brown. These letters were delivered by the advance guard of the battalion. Counsel was given to Samuel Brannan regarding the Saints in California.

Wilford Woodruff concluded the day by writing in his journal: “But I must stop writing. The musketoes have filled my carriage like a cloud and have fallen upon me as though they intend to devour me. I never saw that insect more troublesome than in certain places in this country.”

On the Sweetwater, Wyoming:

Abner Blackburn, of the battalion wrote: “There was a couple of young folks⁵ in the company spooning and licking each other ever since we started on the road. The whole company were tired of it and they were persuaded to marry now and have done with it and not wait until their journeys end.” In the evening, a wedding was held, complete with a wedding feast afterwards followed by a dance or ho‑down. “The banjo and the violin made us forget the hardships of the plains.”

Mormon Ferry, Wyoming:

The ferrymen sent back letters with Marcus Eastman, a battalion member heading back to Council Bluffs. He and three other battalion members were traveling with Jim Bridger. Francis M. Pomeroy bought a horse from the company for twenty-five dollars.

Between Loup Fork and the Platte River, Nebraska:

It rained for a while in the morning. After it cleared, Patty Sessions took some of the things out of her wagon and discovered that they were becoming damp in the wagon. The second company of pioneers held a celebration to recognize independence day. Parley P. Pratt, John Taylor, and John Smith addressed the Saints in a public meeting. The leaders asked the pioneers to work together and to be obedient. They exhorted the Saints against being “cold and careless and neglecting to pray.” They were cautioned to never take the name of the Lord in vain. They were warned to not build large campfires that would attract the Pawnee Indians. It was decided that the companies would travel separately, because it was just impossible to feed and water so many people and animals in one place. They would begin establishing their camps more spread out.

Summer Quarters, Nebraska:

John Lytle arrived from Winter Quarters and found his mother critically ill from the results of her injuries the day before. At noon, a public meeting was held at John D. Lee’s house. He spoke to them about their responsibilities as Saints. Other speakers were Joseph Busby, Brother Baird, Samuel Gully, and Absalom P. Free. Brother John H. Redd was troubled in his mind about going to the west. A storm blew in and it rained during the late afternoon. A steam boat was spotted in the river, late in the evening.

Winter Quarters, Nebraska:

A public meeting was held. Isaac Morley and William W. Major spoke to the congregation. Rain fell in torrents during the afternoon.

Kearny detachment of the battalion, in Nevada:

The Kearny detachment of the Mormon Battalion continued traveling along the Humboldt River toward Fort Hall. One of the men became sick and had to be left behind, but caught up with the company in the evening.

During their march across Nevada, battalion member Amos Cox got into trouble with General Kearny. Private Cox was guarding a water hole to see that no animals watered until all the men had. Sylvester Hulet recorded: “Gen. Kearny rode his horse up and started to water it. Uncle Amos [Cox] pulled his gun and threatened to shoot him unless he took the horse away until all the men had all drunk and filled their canteens. Gen. Kearny then departed but afterwards he had Uncle Amos court martialed and strung up by the thumbs for pulling a gun on his superior officer.”

Mormon Battalion, at Los Angeles, California:

Independence Day was celebrated by the troops in Pueblo de Los Angeles. All of the soldiers were paraded within the fort at sunrise. The New York band played the “Star Spangled Banner” while the flag was being raised. Afterwards, nine cheers were shouted by all the soldiers. “Hail Columbia” was played and then a thirteen-gun salute was fired by the 1st Dragoons. The companies were then marched back to their quarters and again returned at 11 a.m. They paraded some more, this time before Indians and Mexicans. Lt. Stoneman of the 1st Dragoons read the Declaration of Independence. Colonel Stevenson spoke and named the fort, “Fort Moore.”⁶ The band played “Yankee Doodle,” followed by a patriotic song presented by Levi Hancock, of the battalion. Colonel Stevenson offered to have the Declaration of Independence read to the Mexicans in Spanish, but they declined the invitation.

Company B, Mormon Battalion, at San Diego, California:

Independence Day was also celebrated by the Mormon Battalion at San Diego. Five large guns were fired at sunrise from the fort. The battalion members marched down into the town and gave their officers a salute with their guns. The whole city participated in the celebration. Captain Jesse Hunter and Sergeant William Hyde returned from Los Angeles with orders for Company B to march to Los Angeles, and to leave on July 9. Some of the leading citizens expressed a strong desire for the battalion to stay, but most of the men were still very anxious to be discharged. Captain Hunter was disappointed that he had not been able to raise enough men at Los Angeles to make out a large enough company to reenlist under his command. Robert S. Bliss recorded in his journal:

A few days more & we shall go

To see our Wives & Children too

And friends so dear we’ve left below

To save the Church from Overthrow.

Our absence from them has been long

But Oh the time will soon be gone

When we shall meet once more on Earth

And praise the God that gave us Birth.

Lockport, New York:

Elder Lyman O. Littlefield went to find his Uncle Lyman Littlefield’s house near the Erie Canal. He wrote:

I knocked at my uncle’s abode and a hospitable voice bid me enter. Being seated, the scene presented within the compass of that room, to me was of vast moment. I knew that venerable head was my uncle, that the matron at his side was my aunt, and the young men and the one young lady at the table I felt sure were my cousins! This was an auspicious moment, to occur on the anniversary of our nation’s independence! The memories of childhood were instantaneous in crowding among the most sacred recesses of recollection! My uncle so much resembled my father! I could not wait longer for recognition! The following conversation ensued: “Myself ‑‑ ’Is your name Littlefield?’ Uncle ‑‑ ’Yes, sir.’ Myself ‑‑ ’Have you relatives in the west?’ Uncle‑‑’I suppose I have a brother somewhere in the western country. He went away with the Mormons and I have not heard much about him for twenty years.’ Myself ‑‑ ’What was his given name?’ Uncle ‑‑ ’Waldo.’ Myself‑‑’I am well acquainted with a man out there by that name.’ Uncle ‑‑’That must be my brother. How long have you known him?’ Myself ‑‑ ’My earliest remembrances are of him and my mother.’ Uncle ‑‑ ’You are not his son!’ Myself‑ ‑’I am his second son, Lyman, and was named after my uncle, in whose habitation, and in the midst of these, my cousins, this is a happy moment!’” “As I entered, the family was partaking of an early supper. I had not seen them since a little boy, some twenty years previous to that meeting. To be thus ushered into their presence filled me with emotions of pleasure. Their joy was exhibited as if by an electric wave. Simultaneously, uncle, aunt and cousins sprang from the table to salute me with eager and hurried words of welcome.

Sources:

Wilford Woodruff’s Journal, 3:223; “Luke S. Johnson’s Journal,” typescript, BYU, 15; “Charles Harper Diary,” 29; Autobiography of John Brown, 77; Watson, ed., Manuscript History of Brigham Young, 563; Watson, ed., The Orson Pratt Journals, 437‑38; Appleton Milo Harmon Goes West, 39; Howard Egan Diary, Pioneering the West, 91; Kelly, ed., Journals of John D. Lee, 185; Cook, Joseph C. Kingsbury, 119; Smart, ed., Mormon Midwife, 90; Bagley, ed., Frontiersman: Abner Blackburn’s Narrative, 60‑1; Bagley, ed., The Pioneer Camp of the Saints, 218‑19; “The Journal of Nathaniel V. Jones,” Utah Historical Quarterly, 4:20; Journal of Henry Standage in Golder, The March of the Mormon Battalion, 233‑34; “The Journal of Robert S. Bliss,” Utah Historical Quarterly, 4:110; “Journal Extracts of Henry W. Bigler,” Utah Historical Quarterly, 5:61; “Private Journal of Thomas Dunn,” typescript, 26; William Clayton’s Journal, 282; “Lyman Littlefield Reminiscences (1888),” 193‑95; Bigler, The Gold Discovery Journal of Azariah Smith, 88; Ricketts, The Mormon Battalion, 165; “Norton Jacob Journal,” typescript, 101; Schindler, Crossing the Plains, 219

Monday, July 5, 1847

On the road to Fort Bridger, Wyoming:

At 8 a.m., the pioneers continued on their journey despite the fact that many of the brethren were still sick with the mountain fever. Orson Pratt speculated that the fever could be caused “by the suffocating clouds of dust which rise from the sandy road, and envelope the whole camp when in motion, and also by the sudden changes of temperature; for during the day it is exceedingly warm, while snowy mountains which surround us on all sides, render the air cold and uncomfortable during the absence of the sun.”

They followed the Green River for three and a half miles. After resting the animals, they continued on the road which headed west away from the river. They climbed some bluffs and then traveled over rolling hills. At 4:45, after a total of twenty miles, they arrived at Ham’s Fork, a swift stream about 70 feet wide.⁷ The prickly pear cacti were in bloom, some with yellow flowers, others with red. Rain fell in the evening, but the storms seemed to stay close to the mountains.

On the Platte River, Nebraska:

The Wallace Company (Abraham Smoot Hundred) had a wagon break down while crossing Wood River. This delay caused them to camp several miles behind the main camp. The rest of the camp reached Grand Island and discovered a guide board left by the first pioneer company that read: “April 29th, 30th, 1847. Pioneers all well, short grass, rushes plenty, fine weather, watch Indians ‑‑ 217 miles from Winter Quarters.” Jesse Crosby wrote:

The whole camp of near 600 wagons arranged in order on a fine plain, beautifully adorned with roses. The plant called the prickly pear, grows spontaneously; our cattle are seen in herds in the distance; the whole scene is grand and delightful. Good health and good spirits prevail in the camp. Our labors are more than they otherwise would be, on account of the scarcity of men ‑‑ 500 being in the army, and about 200 pioneers ahead of us.

Winter Quarters, Nebraska:

The guard met to settle up with Daniel Russell, a member of the High Council who had ten of his cattle found in the corn field. By the city law, he was supposed to pay a fine of ten dollars. He had appealed to the Council and they told him to settle the matter with the guard. Hosea Stout wrote, “So we left it to his own conscience & magnanimity to say what was just as he was one of the council and helped make the law.” He decided to pay ten bushels of corn and ten bushels of buck wheat. The guard accepted this payment.

Brigham Young’s sister, Fanny Young Murray, wrote a letter to Gould and Laura Murray of Rochester, New York:

Brigham and Heber with nearly two hundred of chosen men, left this place on the 14th of April for the Rocky Mountains. We heard from them by way of the far company, when they were fifty miles from this place, since which, we have heard nothing, nor do we expect to until we see them, and that may be a long time, or it may be this fall. They will probably go till they find a place where we can rest for a little season.

She wrote about the troubles with the Omaha Indians:

We do not suffer anything from fear of the Indians, for we know that for their sakes we are suffering all these things, and we are sure that the Lord our God will not suffer them to destroy us. There has been great destruction of life, both with man and beast, since we left Nauvoo, but none of these things move us while we are keeping the commandments of our Lord and Master, for we know that whether we live or die, we are His.

Fanny wrote about Winter Quarters and the Mississippi River:

There have been but two steamboats here this season; this makes the river appear rather lonely, except when the fur boats are scudding down; seven were seen at once, yesterday; we hailed them with joy -- I mean with our eyes, for it looks so lonely to see no raft upon the water. . . . I should like to tell you how many hundred houses we have built, but have not lately ascertained. In March there were about eight hundred, and many have been built since. Some are very good log houses, and others about the medium, and many poor indeed, but better than none. The land is far from being level here, but the hills are really beautiful -- far more so, to me, than level land could be. If you could sail up the river and take a peep at our town, you would say it was romantic and even grand, notwithstanding the log huts.

Sources:

Howard Egan Diary, Pioneering the West, 91; Cook, Joseph C. Kingsbury, 119; Watson, ed., The Orson Pratt Journals, 438‑39; Kenney, ed., Wilford Woodruff’s Journal, 3:224; Bagley, ed., The Pioneer Camp of the Saints, 219; Brooks, ed., On the Mormon Frontier, 1:265; The Personal Writings of Eliza Roxcy Snow, 182; “Jesse W. Crosby Journal,” typescript, BYU, 24‑5; Woman’s Exponent, 14:11:82

Tuesday, July 6, 1847

On the road to Fort Bridger, Wyoming:

After traveling 3 3/4 miles, the pioneers forded Ham’s Fork at a point where it was about forty feet wide and two feet deep. In 1 1/ 2 miles, they came to Black’s Fork and crossed it.

Wilford Woodruff recorded: “Man & beast, Harnesses & waggons, were all covered with dust. . . . The face of the country is the same to day as usual Barren, Sand & Sage, with occasionally A sprinkling of flowers some vary beutiful.”

In thirteen more miles, they recrossed Black’s Fork and camped on the bank. The grass was good and there were many willow trees near camp. William Clayton wrote:

At this place there is a fine specimen of the wild flax which grows all around. It is considered equal to any cultivated, bears a delicate blue flower. There is also an abundance of the rich bunch grass in the neighborhood of the river back and many wild currants. The prairies are lined with beautiful flowers of various colors ‑‑ chiefly blue, red and yellow, which have a rich appearance and would serve to adorn and beautify an eastern flower garden.

Mormon Ferry, Wyoming:

The ferrymen took across an emigrant company with eighteen wagons. Three of the wagons left without paying the fifty-cent fee. Another company of twenty‑two wagons went up the river to ford it by raising their wagon beds. The river had been falling fast, making this method of crossing possible.

On the Platte River, Nebraska:

Across from Grand Island, a daughter, Sarah Ellen Smithies, was born to James and Nancy Smithies at 11 a.m. This delayed the Abraham Smoot Company for a few hours. Patty Sessions wrote: “Go 18 miles camp on the bank of a stream from the Platte River where the Indians had camped. We burnt their wickeups for wood, some waided the river to get wood, brought it over on their backs. The camp did not all get up last night neither have they to night. Smoots Co have not been heard from since Monday, Grants Co did not get up to night.” Jedediah M. Grant’s hundred were delayed because of traffic problems with John Taylor’s company. Abraham Smoot’s company camped at the spot where some of the companies had rested at noon.

A son, Benjamin Leavitt Baker, was born to Simon and Charlotte Leavitt Baker.⁸

Winter Quarters, Nebraska:

Ellen Aurelia Williams, age six months, died of congestive chills. She was the daughter of Gustavus and Maria Williams.

Summer Quarters, Nebraska:

Sarah Lytle, age Seventy‑three, died of injuries received a few days earlier from a wagon tipping over. She was buried under the direction of Joseph Young.

Mormon Battalion, at Los Angeles, California:

During the morning, the battalion attended a funeral service for a soldier of the 1st dragoons who had died during the previous evening. He was buried with the honors of war and interred in a Catholic Cemetery.

Sources:

Watson, ed., The Orson Pratt Journals, 439; Kenney, ed., Wilford Woodruff’s Journal, 3:224; Kelly, ed., Journals of John D. Lee, 185‑86; Cook, Joseph C. Kingsbury, 119; Smart, ed., Mormon Midwife, 90; The Personal Writings of Eliza Roxcy Snow, 182‑83; Appleton Milo Harmon Goes West, 39; William Clayton’s Journal, 283; Tyler, A Concise History of the Mormon Battalion, 297

Wednesday, July 7, 1847

On the road to Fort Bridger, Wyoming:

The pioneers restarted their journey at 7:45 and once again crossed Black’s Fork after traveling about two miles. The wind blew strongly, making the road dusty and unpleasant for traveling. They rested at noon, on the banks of a swift stream.

In the afternoon, they saw a number of Indian lodges on the south side of the road. These were occupied by trappers and hunters who had taken Indians as wives. Children were seen playing around the lodges. Many horses were seen grazing nearby. After crossing four more streams, they arrived at the historic Fort Bridger.

Howard Egan described the fort: “Bridger’s Fort is composed of two log houses, about forty feet long each, and joined by a pen for horses, about ten feet high, and constructed by placing poles upright in the ground close together.” Orson Pratt wrote: “Bridger’s post consists of two adjoining log‑houses, dirt roofs, and a small picket yard of logs set in the ground, and about 8 feet high.” Horace K. Whitney added: “This is not a regular fort as I at first supposed, but consists of 2 log houses where the inhabitants live & also do their trading.” The roadometer indicated that Fort Bridger was 397 miles from Fort Laramie.⁹

They made their camp about a half mile west of the fort. Some of the pioneers caught several trout in the brooks. Erastus Snow wrote: “It is about the first pleasant looking spot I have seen west of the pass. This is the country of the Snake Indians, some of whom were at the fort. They bear a good reputation among the mountaineers for honesty and integrity.” William Clayton had a different view of their location. “The country all around looks bleak and cold.”

The advance guard of the battalion found the horse thief at the fort who had helped to steal ten of their horses. They had previously recovered eight of the horses and asked about the remaining two. The thief said they were gone to Oregon.

Mormon Ferry, Wyoming:

A Captain Magone’s company of thirty‑six wagons was taken across over the river for one dollar each. Captain Magone asked for the names of all the captains of the companies and the number of wagons. He said he would publish this information in a history. There was a Catholic Bishop and seven priests in this company. Eight men from Oregon arrived with pack mules and horses heading east. They were ferried across and they hired the men to do some blacksmithing.

On the Platte River, Nebraska:

The second pioneer company traveled fifteen miles and found another guide board left by Brigham Young’s pioneers. It said that they had killed eleven buffalo. A wagon ran over one of Perrigrine Sessions’s feet. His foot hurt so much that he could not drive his team. The companies passed by a large prairie dog village. Jesse W. Crosby described these villages: “They are certainly a curiosity to the traveler; they live in cells, the entrance of which is guarded against the rain. Thousands of these little creatures dwell in composts, and as we pass great numbers of them set themselves up to look at us, they resemble a ground hog, or wood chuck, but smaller.” Isaac C. Haight added: “Passed several villages inhabited by dogs a little larger than the squirrel. Some were killed. They are good to eat.”

Sarah Rich recorded:

We came to a land alive with what is called "prairie dogs." They live in holes in the ground, and made the hills resound with their barking all night long. They are about the size of small puppies, and as cunning as they can be. They sat near their holes by hundreds and barked and yelped until the boys got almost up to them, then they dodged into their holes or dens and stuck their heads out again and barked. Some of the men shot at them. They were such handsome little dogs with more fur than hair on them. If we could have caught them alive, we would have tried to tame them just because they were so small and pretty.

During the morning, the Joseph Noble fifty were ordered to leave the “beaten path” and break a new trail. Eliza R. Snow wrote: “It made hard riding for me, yet I felt like submitting to ‘the pow’rs that be’ & endure it altho’ the 2 roads were unoccupied.” Her company passed by the Charles C. Rich Company who was repairing two wagons.

Summer Quarters, Nebraska:

Isaac Morley arrived from Winter Quarters and notified John D. Lee to come to the city on July 10 to reorganize the Summer Quarters company.

Winter Quarters, Nebraska:

On this warm day, Mary Richards took her bed and bedding outside, scaled the bedstead and the log around her bed, and scrubbed the floor. This treatment was needed because she had been bothered by bed bugs.

Daniel Russell, a member of the High Council, went to see Hosea Stout to inform him that he had consulted with the High Council and it had been decided to disband the Winter Quarters police guard led by Brother Stout. This was shocking news, and Brother Stout questioned in his mind if it was true, since Daniel Russell had recent run‑ins with the guard.

St. Louis, Missouri:

A son, Thomas Brigham Wrigley, was born to Thomas and Grace Wilkinson Wrigley.

Sources:

Howard Egan Diary, Pioneering the West, 92‑3; Appleton Milo Harmon Goes West, 39‑40; Smart, ed., Mormon Midwife, 90; The Personal Writings of Eliza Roxcy Snow, 183; “Jesse W. Crosby Journal,” typescript, BYU, 35; Kelly, ed., Journals of John D. Lee, 186; “Erastus Snow Journal Excerpts,” Improvement Era 15:249; Kenney, ed., Wilford Woodruff’s Journal, 3:224; Watson, ed., The Orson Pratt Journals, 439‑40; Bagley, ed., The Pioneer Camp of the Saints, 220; William Clayton’s Journal, 285; Brooks, ed., On the Mormon Frontier, 1:265; Ward, ed., Winter Quarters, 151; “Isaac C. Haight Journal,” typescript, 42; “Sarah Rich Autobiography,” typescript, BYU, 75‑6

Thursday, July 8, 1847

Fort Bridger, Wyoming:

The morning was cold. Ice formed during the night but melted as soon as the sun rose. By 9 a.m., the temperature stood at sixty‑six degrees. The pioneers decided to spend the day at Fort Bridger, preparing for the rugged roads ahead in the mountains. While blacksmith work was being performed on the wagons and horse shoes, some of the men tried their hand at fishing for trout. Wilford Woodruff wrote about his efforts fly fishing:

The man at the fort said there were but very few trout in the streams, and a good many of the brethren were already at the creeks with their rods & lines trying their skill baiting with fresh meat & grass hoppers, but no one seemed to ketch any. I went & flung my fly onto the [brook] and it being the first time that I ever tried the artificial fly in America, or ever saw it tried, I watched it as it floated upon the water with as much intense interest as Franklin did his kite when he tried to draw lightning from the skies. And as Franklin received great joy when he saw electricity or lightning descend on his kite string, in like manner was I highly gratifiyed when I saw the nimble trout dart my fly hook himself & run away with the line but I soon worried him out & drew him to shore.

Within three hours he had caught twelve large trout.

In the afternoon, Wilford Woodruff went to Fort Bridger and traded a rifle for four buffalo robes. The prices were high, but the robes were of good quality. Howard Egan traded two rifles for nineteen buckskins, three elkskins, and some material for making moccasins. Heber C. Kimball obtained hunting shirts, pants, and twenty skins.

The brethren decided to head to the southwest toward the Salt Lake. They wrote a letter to Amasa Lyman, with the battalion detachment, discussing what should be done with the soldiers.

We understand that the troops have not provisions sufficient to go to the western coast, and their time of enlistment will expire about the time they get to our place; they will draw their pay until duly discharged, if they continue to obey council; and there is no officer short of California, who is authorized to discharge them; therefore, when you come up with us, Capt. Brown can quarter his troops in our beautiful city, which we are about to build, either on parole, detached service, or some other important business, and we can have a good visit with them, while Capt. Brown with an escort of 15 or 20 mounted men and Elder Brannan for pilot, may gallop over to the headquarters, get his pay, rations and discharge and learn the geography of the country. If Captain Brown approves these suggestions and will signify the same to Brother Brannan, so that he can discharge his men and remain in camp; otherwise he [Brannan] is anxious to go on his way.

Andrew Gibbons¹⁰ was tried before the Twelve for an assault on George Mills. Both had used abusive language against each other and ended up asking for forgiveness. Brother Gibbons was honorably acquitted. The Council also decided that Sergeant Thomas Williams of the battalion and Samuel Brannan should head back to meet Captain James Brown’s company of the battalion. William Clayton explained: “Inasmuch as the brethren have not received their discharge nor their pay from the United States, Brother Brannan goes to tender his services as pilot to conduct a company of fifteen or twenty to San Francisco if they feel disposed to go there and try to get their pay.”

Mormon Ferry, Wyoming:

The men performed $6.40 worth of blacksmithing for emigrant companies and Luke Johnson cleaned teeth and did other dentistry for $3.00.

On the Platte River, Nebraska:

The pioneers found another buffalo skull with a message that Brigham Young’s company had written to them on May 4. Perrigrine Sessions wrote that this gave the Saints much joy. Brother Sessions spotted some wild or stray horses. Parley P. Pratt and John Taylor caught the horses and they were brought into the camp. The companies crossed several streams and built bridges over a number of them. Buffalo was spotted for the first time.

Winter Quarters, Nebraska:

Before Hosea Stout notified the guard about the order to disband, he went to see the president of the High Council, Alpheus Cutler. Brother Stout could not believe that the order from Daniel Russell to dissolve the guard was true. President Cutler told him that there had been discussion on this subject, but no order to stop the guard has been issued. He told Brother Stout to keep the guard together and the matter would again be discussed at the next High Council meeting.

Hosea Stout wrote:

This was one of the hottest days I ever saw. But in the evening the wind came from the North accompanied by torrents of rain which ran like rivulets down the streets. It bursted in to my house in torrents and filled it up in a few moments untill I had to throw the water out by the bucket full untill we were all completely drenched. This I believe was the hardest rain this season.

Eliza Jane Godfrey, age six months, died of diarrhea. She was the daughter of Joseph and Ann Reeves Godfrey.

Kearny detachment of the battalion, in Nevada:

The small detachment of the battalion reached a crossroad in present‑day northeast Nevada. The road to the right was a two‑day journey to the Salt Lake. They took the road to the left which headed to Fort Hall. They camped at the headwaters for the Humboldt River.

Company B, Mormon Battalion, at San Diego, California:

Henry Bigler wrote: “Our brick masons [Philander Colton, Rufus Stoddard, Henry Wilcox, and William Garner] finished laying up the first brick house in that place and for all I know the first in California. The building, I believe, was designed to be used for a courthouse and schoolhouse. The inhabitants came together, set out a table well spread with wines and different kinds of drinks.”

Sources:

Watson, ed., The Orson Pratt Journals, 439‑40; Kenney, ed., Wilford Woodruff’s Journal, 3:225; “Charles Harper Diary,” 29; Cook, Joseph C. Kingsbury, 119; Smart, ed., Mormon Midwife, 90; Appleton Milo Harmon Goes West, 40; Howard Egan Diary, Pioneering the West, 93; “The Journal of Nathaniel V. Jones,” Utah Historical Quarterly, 4:21; William Clayton’s Journal, 286; Brooks, ed., On the Mormon Frontier, 1:265 Bagley, ed., The Pioneer Camp of the Saints, 221; Journal History, 8 July 1847.

Friday, July 9, 1847

Fort Bridger, Wyoming:

Samuel Brannan, Thomas Williams, and possibly a few others returned toward South Pass to meet the detachment of the Mormon Battalion, taking with them a letter from the brethren. Most of the advance party of the battalion remained with the pioneer company, again increasing its numbers.

At 8 a.m., the rest of the pioneers left their camp near Fort Bridger and traveled on rough roads. Erastus Snow wrote: “We took a blind trail, the general course of which is a little south of west, leading in the direction of the southern extremity of the Salt Lake which is the region we wish to explore.” They were barely able to discern the trail left the previous year by the Donner‑Reed party and others. After six and a half miles, they arrived at Cottonwood Creek and rested their teams.

During the warm afternoon, the pioneers ascended a long, steep hill, eight miles from Fort Bridger. The descent on the other side was the steepest and most difficult they had yet come across. They passed some large drifts of snows. Thomas Bullock wrote: “Made two Snow balls, a refreshing bite at this time of year.”

At 3 p.m., the pioneers crossed Muddy Fork, a stream about twelve feet wide, and camped on its banks. Tall grass that resembled wheat was plentiful. The mountain fever continued to afflict the camp. As some of the members got better, others became ill. Wilford Woodruff came down with it and also William Carter.¹¹ Many of the other brethren spent the evening singing hymns for Brigham Young.

Mormon Ferry, Wyoming:

Thomas Grover, William Empey, John Higbee, and Jonathan Pugmire (of the battalion) did about $30.00 worth of blacksmithing. Appleton Harmon helped repair Edmund Ellsworth’s wagon. Luke Johnson performed dentistry. Benjamin F. Stewart herded cattle. Francis M. Pomeroy searched for his horse. Edmund Ellsworth and James Davenport were sick.

On the Platte River, Nebraska:

The Jedediah M. Grant Hundred was delayed because of a broken wagon. They watched the other companies disappear out of sight. The company later caught up and camped on the banks of the Platte. Some of the men went to hunt buffalo during the day, but returned to the wagon without spotting any. The camp had to take a slightly different route than Brigham Young’s pioneer camp, because the waters were higher and more mud slues had to be avoided. Jesse W. Crosby waded across the Platte. He wrote: “Found it one mile wide, three feet deep, one foot on an average, current three miles an hour.” Several of the sisters washed in the warm water and noticed a large pine tree floating down the river.

Winter Quarters, Nebraska:

Mary Richards and Amelia Peirson Richards (wife of Willard Richards) took a walk on the bluffs above Winter Quarters. She wrote: “We gazed with delight upon our city of 8 months growth its beauty full gardins and extensive fields clothed with the fast growing corn and vegetables of every description above all things pleasing to the eyes of an Exile in the Wilderness of our afflictions.”

A daughter, Mary Eliza Johnson, was born to Aaron and Mary Johnson. Mary Amanda Margaret Zabriskie, age five months, died. She was the daughter of Louis C. and Mary Higbee Zabriskie.

Kearny detachment of the battalion, in Idaho:

The detachment crossed into present‑day Idaho. They traveled thirty miles and camped at Big Spring.

Mormon Battalion, at Los Angeles, California:

The natives were very busy preparing the town for another Catholic celebration. The battalion received rumors that the Mexicans might try to use the festival to recapture the city by drawing the battalion out of their fort. Several brass cannons were brought in from San Pedro.

Company B, Mormon Battalion, at San Diego, California:

Company B took up their march for Los Angeles, departing their home in San Diego for almost four months. Then natives hated to see them leave and clung to them like children. The company traveled twelve miles and camped.

Sources:

“The Journal of Nathaniel V. Jones,” Utah Historical Quarterly, 4:21; Howard Egan Diary, Pioneering the West, 93‑4; Appleton Milo Harmon Goes West, 40; “Erastus Snow Journal Excerpts,” Improvement Era 15:249; Kenney, ed., Wilford Woodruff’s Journal, 3:226; Watson, ed., The Orson Pratt Journals, 440‑41; Bagley, ed., The Pioneer Camp of the Saints, 222; Ward, ed., Winter Quarters, 151; The Personal Writings of Eliza Roxcy Snow, 183; “Jesse W. Crosby Journal,” typescript, BYU, 35; Smart, ed., Mormon Midwife, 90; “The Journal of Robert S. Bliss,” Utah Historical Quarterly, 4:110; Ricketts, The Mormon Battalion, 158; Tyler, A Concise History of the Mormon Battalion, 297

Saturday, July 10, 1847

West of Fort Bridger, Wyoming:

The pioneers traveled a road that gradually ascended. They passed a spring which they named Red Mineral Spring. It was very red and the water tasted terrible. They soon reached the summit of a ridge. Orson Pratt calculated the elevation at 7,315 feet. They then descended into a valley and halted for the noon rest. Thomas Bullock wrote: “Mr. [Lewis] Myers caught a young ‘War Eagle’ & brought it into Camp to look at. It measured 6 feet between the tips of its wings.”

In the afternoon, the pioneers had to climb another ridge that ran between Muddy Fork on the east and Bear River on the west. The elevation of this summit was believed to be 7,700 feet. They descended into the valley and camped on Sulphur Creek. Thomas Bullock recorded:

Descended by two steep pitches, almost perpendicular, which on looking back from the bottom looks like jumping off the roof of a house to a middle story, then from the middle story to the ground & thank God there was no accident happened. President Young & Kimball cautioned all to be very careful & locked the Wheels of some wagons themselves. It was a long, steep & dangerous descent.

An Indian came from Fort Bridger and camped with the pioneers for the night. Three grizzly bears were spotted but they quickly left and did not bother the camp. Albert Carrington found a vein of stone coal despite statements from explorers who said it would not be found in this region.

Orson Pratt recorded:

Just before our encampment, as I was wandering alone upon one of the hills, examining the various geological formations, I discovered smoke some two miles from our encampment, which I expected arose from some small Indian encampment. I informed some of our men and they immediately went to discover who they were; they found them to be a small party from the Bay of St. Francisco, on their way home to the States. They were accompanied by Mr. Miles Goodyear, a mountaineer. . . . Mr. G[oodyear] informed us that he had just established himself near the Salt Lake, between the mouths of Weber’s Fork and Bear River; that he had been to the Bay of St. Francisco on business & just returned with this company following the Hastings new route [that traveled south of Great Salt Lake into Nevada] that those left in charge at the lake had succeeded in making a small garden which was doing well by being watered.

Goodyear estimated that they were seventy‑five miles from the lake. He described three roads to reach the Salt Lake and spoke of the country. They discussed the tragic circumstances surrounding the Donner‑Reed party who had traveled this road a year earlier. Wilford Woodruff recorded in his journal that he understood they were mostly from Independence and Clay County Missouri and had been threatening to drive out the Mormons from California.¹² Elder Woodruff wrote: “The snows fell upon them 18 feet deep on a level & they died & eat up each other. About 40 persons perished & were mostly eat up by those who survived them. Mrs. L[avinah] Murphy of Tenn whom I baptized while on a mission in that country but since apostitized & joined the mob was in the company, died or was killed & eat up.” They were told that the Donner‑Reed party had lost time quarreling who would improve the roads.

Mormon Ferry, Wyoming:

Luke Johnson shot a buffalo about three miles from the ferry. An emigrant company bought the meat from him. The brethren at the ferry purchased $100 worth of goods from a Mr. H. Lieuelling. The ferrymen were interested to find out that he had a roadometer attached to one of his wagons.

On the Platte River, Nebraska:

The second company of Saints traveled only about eight miles and camped early for the weekend near an island full of willows. Hunters were sent out, hoping to kill some buffalo, but they came back only with some antelope and deer. They were about 252 miles from Winter Quarters and about 700 miles behind Brigham Young’s pioneer company at Sulphur Creek.

Winter Quarters, Nebraska:

An important meeting was held under the direction of Isaac Morley. The objective was to reorganize the companies at Winter and Summer Quarters. This was needed because many of the captains and families had left for the west. James W. Cummings and Benjamin L. Clapp were sustained as captains of hundreds. The captains of fifty chosen were: Jonathan C. Wright, George D. Grant, and Daniel Carn.

A son, Thomas James Foster, was born to George and Jane McCullough Foster.

Summer Quarters, Nebraska:

A son, Isaac Houston Jr., was born to Isaac and Theodocia Keys Houston.¹³

Mormon Battalion, at Los Angeles, California:

A bull fight was held on the flat near the town. The battalion remained at the fort, but could still view the sports below the hill. A grand ball was also held and the battalion was invited. But they remained at the fort because of rumors that the Mexicans were trying to draw them out and take over the fort.

Company B, Mormon Battalion, marching to Los Angeles:

As they were marching along the ocean, Robert Bliss and David Rainey noticed something large and white in the distance. They let their animals graze and went to check it out. It turned out to be about one hundred acres of salt, about a half inch deep. Robert Bliss brought back a pint of the beautiful salt. Company B marched thirty miles and arrived at San Luis Rey.

Sources:

Watson, ed., The Orson Pratt Journals, 441‑43; Kenney, ed., Wilford Woodruff’s Journal, 3:227; “Erastus Snow Journal Excerpts,” Improvement Era 15:250; Kelly, ed., Journals of John D. Lee, 186‑87; Cook, Joseph C. Kingsbury, 119; Appleton Milo Harmon Goes West, 40; Bagley, ed., The Pioneer Camp of the Saints, 223; Smart, ed., Mormon Midwife, 90; Emigrant’s Guide; Our Pioneer Heritage, 6; “The Journal of Robert S. Bliss,” Utah Historical Quarterly, 4:110; Tyler, A Concise History of the Mormon Battalion, 297

Sunday, July 11, 1847

West of Fort Bridger, Wyoming:

The pioneers rested for the Sabbath. Some of the brethren rode out to scout the route ahead and found a mineral tar spring fifteen miles from camp. Some of them thought it was oil. It had a very strong smell. Albert Carrington tested the substance and said it was 87% carbon. Some of the men filled up their tar buckets and used it for wheel grease. Others used it to oil their guns and shoes. The substance burned bright like oil. They also found a sulphur spring nearby. William Clayton wrote: “The surface of the water is covered with flour of sulphur and where it oozes from the rocks is perfectly black.”

As the pioneers were getting closer to their new home, some started to feel uneasy about the location. Thomas Bullock recorded: “As I lay in my wagon sick, I overheard several of the brethren murmuring about the face of the country, altho’ it is very evident, to the most careless observer, that it is growing richer & richer every day.” William Clayton also heard this talk: “There are some in camp who are getting discouraged about the looks of the country but thinking minds are not much disappointed, and we have no doubt of finding a place where the Saints can live which is all we ought to ask or expect.”

Miles Goodyear went with Porter Rockwell, Jesse C. Little, Joseph Matthews, and John Brown to show them a new road that would be shorter to the Salt Lake valley. After dark, the brethren were called together to decide which of the two roads to take. They decided to take a road that headed to the right that Miles Goodyear recommended.¹⁴ The Twelve privately felt that the other route would be safer, but decided to let the voice of the camp decide to avoid further murmuring. A singing meeting was held during the evening.

Mormon Ferry, Wyoming:

The brethren ferried across seven hundred fruit trees, which included apple, peach, plum, pear, currants, grapes, raspberry, and cherries. They were owned by Mr. H. Lieuelling of Salem, Iowa.

Phinehas Young, Aaron Farr, George Woodward, Eric Glines, and battalion members William Walker and John Cazier arrived at the ferry. They had been sent back by the pioneers to help pilot the second pioneer company who were about 400 miles to the east. This small group had left the pioneers at Green River on July 4 and had traveled all the way to the Mormon Ferry in just six days, a journey of about 215 miles.

Some of the ferrymen wanted to join this company to meet their families. Since the river was low enough to ford, and most of the Oregon emigrants had already passed, Thomas Grover agreed with this idea. The brethren decided to divide equally all of the provisions that the ferrymen had received. The division amounted to $60.50 each.

On the Platte River, Nebraska:

Hunters were sent out to hunt buffalo. Eight were later brought in. A public Sabbath meeting was held at 1 p.m.

Sarah Rich wrote in her autobiography:

We journeyed on up the Platte River, came into the buffalo country, seeing many large buffalo. Brother Lewis Robinson was the first one in our company to kill a buffalo. He killed one weighing over a thousand pounds. We all stopped and had a feast all through our camp. We stopped a few days to wash, iron and cook, while the men repaired their wagons, and let their teams rest and recruit up as we were in good food. When all the companies would come up, we would start on again.

The second death on the pioneer journey from Winter Quarters occurred. Ellen Holmes, of the Daniel Spencer company, died. She had been ill for six months.

Winter Quarters, Nebraska:

Elder Orson Hyde preached at a Sunday meeting. His topic was, “There is a way that seemeth good unto man but leadeth unto death.” He said that all disobedient and unruly spirits would be servants in the next world. Friend Gilliam was quite offended by this sermon. In the evening, the High Council met. They discussed Daniel Russell’s order to Hosea Stout to disband the guard. Many of the Council that an order had been issued, because they had never discussed the subject. They all agreed that the guard should still be kept.

Mormon Battalion, at Los Angeles, California:

The bull fights continued in Los Angeles. Several horses were gored in the games. One of the bulls broke out of its pen and caught Captain Daniel Davis’ six-year-old boy, Daniel, with its horns and was said to have tossed him twenty feet in the air. The little boy was bruised and scared.

Company B, Mormon Battalion, marching to Los Angeles:

The men visited the mission and then marched eleven miles and camped at San Bernardo de Los Floris, near the ocean. They visited a church and Indian village.

Sources:

Wilford Woodruff’s Journal, 3:227; Howard Egan Diary, Pioneering the West, 94; Appleton Milo Harmon Goes West, 40; “Journal of William Empey,” Annals of Wyoming, 21:139; Kelly, ed., Journals of John D. Lee, 187; “Erastus Snow Journal Excerpts,” Improvement Era 15:259; Bagley, ed., The Pioneer Camp of the Saints, 224; Brooks, ed., On the Mormon Frontier, 1:265; William Clayton’s Journal, 289‑90; The Personal Writings of Eliza Roxcy Snow, 183‑84; “The Journal of Robert S. Bliss,” Utah Historical Quarterly, 4:111; Ricketts, The Mormon Battalion, 159; 1997‑98 Church Almanac, 117; “Sarah Rich Autobiography,” typescript, BYU, 74

Monday, July 12, 1847

West of Fort Bridger, Wyoming:

Wilford Woodruff got up early and rode to Bear River to do some early‑ morning fly fishing. “For the first time I saw the long looked for Bear River Valley. Yet the spot where we struck it was nothing very interesting. There was considerable grass in the valley & some timber & think bushes on the bank of the river.” He found it difficult to fish with the fly because of thick underbrush, but he wrote: “I fished several hours & had all sorts of luck, good, bad, and indifferent.”

The rest of the pioneers started out, and traveled down Sulphur Creek and came to the Bear River. It was about sixty feet wide and two and a half feet deep. The current was rapid and the bottom was covered with boulders, presenting a difficult crossing.

They came to another fork in the road and took the road to the right. The road climbed over a ridge and then they descended into a ravine which they followed for several miles. Orson Pratt described their surroundings: “The country is very broken, with high hills and vallies, with no timber excepting scrubby cedar upon their sides.” Erastus Snow added: “There has been a very evident improvement in the soil productions and general appearance of the country since we left Fort Bridger, but more particularly since we crossed Bear River. The mountain sage has in a great measure given place to grass and a variety of prairie flowers and scrub cedars upon the sides of the hills.”

The hunters brought in about a dozen antelope from a large heard. The pioneers came to “The Needles,” some rock formations that Orson Pratt described these formations: “The rocks are from 100 to 200 feet in height, and rise up in perpendicular and shelving form, being broken or worked out into many curious forms by the rains. Some quite large boulders were cemented in this rock.”¹⁵

Brigham Young became very sick with the mountain fever. He decided to stop a few hours to rest. The rest of the wagons stopped with him for the noon rest, but after two hours the majority were told to continue. Eight wagons stayed behind, including Brigham Young, Heber C. Kimball, Lorenzo Young, Ezra T. Benson, and Albert P. Rockwood. Brother Rockwood was also very sick.

The rest of the company traveled down a ravine and then crossed over another ridge. They descended into another ravine and camped at the foot of a ledge of rooks.

Orson Pratt wrote: “Here is the mouth of a curious cave [Cache Cave]. . . . The opening resembles very much the doors attached to an out‑door cellar, being about 8 feet high and 12 or 14 feet wide. . . . We went into this cave about 30 feet, where the entrance becoming quite small, we did not feel disposed to penetrate it any further.” Wilford Woodruff added: “Many of us cut our names in it.” They named the cave “Redden’s Cave,” after Jackson Redden, the first of the pioneers to find it. Brigham Young and the others did not come into camp by the evening.

Mormon Ferry, Wyoming:

Many of the brethren prepared to return to Fort Laramie with those sent back from the Pioneer company and the Mormon Battalion. Two buffalo were spotted on the north side of the river coming toward the ferry crossing. Luke Johnson and Phinehas Young chased them and soon killed one of them only a half mile from camp. The meat was brought into camp and dried.

On the Platte River, Nebraska:

The Daniel Spencer Hundred took their turn to lead the more than 1,500 pioneers. Eliza R. Snow wrote: “The prairie to day is little else than a barren waste ‑‑ where the buffalo seem to roam freely.” They traveled about twelve miles and camped. Many of the men were busy smoking buffalo meat. They obtained wood by wading over the river to Grand Island. Isaac C. Haight burned his foot badly.

Sarah Rich wrote:

But while passing through the buffalo country we did not travel fast, for all the men folks seemed to want to kill a buffalo, so they would travel a few miles a camp, and hunt, for it was a new sport for them. Mr. Rich was after a large herd, him and several of our company, riding horse back. They killed three. The first one he wounded; it was a very large one, and it turned upon him and came very near killing the horse he was riding, but Mr. Rich shot again, and killed the buffalo. The next day he killed two more. They dressed them and divided out the meat in the company. The men fixed scaffolds out of willows and spread out the meat cut up in thin slices, and made fires underneath, as one side of the meat would get dry, they would turn it over, and by so doing, it became dry. They called it "jerk" meat. We put it into sacks, and had enough to last us all through and it was the sweetest meat I ever tasted. The children grew fat on it. We also tried out the tallow, for we needed grease for our cooking. Every other company also supplied themselves with "jerked" meat.

Company B, Mormon Battalion, marching to Los Angeles:

Robert S. Bliss wrote: “Marched 16 miles side of the ocean & in it when every few waves would wet our horses feet. I selected a few shells for a memorial of the Great Pacific.” They camped near the ruins of the San Juan Mission.

Sources:

Watson, ed., The Orson Pratt Journals, 443‑45; “Luke S. Johnson Journal,” typescript, BYU, 16; “Erastus Snow Journal Excerpts,” Improvement Era 15:259; “Albert P. Rockwood Journal,” typescript, BYU, 62; Howard Egan Diary, Pioneering the West, 94‑5; Kenney, ed., Wilford Woodruff’s Journal, 3:228‑29; Appleton Milo Harmon Goes West, 40; “Journal of William Empey,” Annals of Wyoming, 21:139; Smart, ed., Mormon Midwife, 90‑1; The Personal Writings of Eliza Roxcy Snow, 184; “The Journal of Robert S. Bliss,” Utah Historical Quarterly, 4:411; “Isaac C. Haight Journal,” typescript, 42; “Sarah Rich Autobiography,” typescript, BYU, 74‑5

Tuesday, July 13, 1847

Near Cache Cave, Utah:

Two messengers, John Brown and Joseph Matthews, were sent back to meet with Brigham Young back at The Needles. The camp did not want to move on until President Young caught up with them. The messengers returned with Heber C. Kimball and Howard Egan. They reported that Brigham Young was feeling a little better but still could not travel. Albert P. Rockwood was near death and “deranged in mind.”

It was becoming very urgent for the pioneers to complete their journey and to plant a crop as soon as possible in the Salt Lake Valley. The Twelve directed Orson Pratt to lead an advance company of 42 men and 23 wagons through the mountains. They were instructed to make roads to enable the main company to follow later. Heber C. Kimball returned to The Needles. At 3 p.m., this company started their journey and traveled about eight miles and entered Echo Canyon.¹⁶

The main company stayed at their camp near Cache Cave. Thomas Bullock went to explore the cave which was thirty‑six feet by twenty‑four feet and was about four to six feet high. Many of the brethren carved their names on the walls. Brother Bullock observed about fifty swallows nests near the roof of the cave.

The hunters brought in twelve antelope. Wilford Woodruff and Willard Richards took a walk to search for a spring. They reminisced about their missionary days when Elder Woodruff served at the Fox Islands in Maine, and when they labored together in Preston, England. As the main camp rested in the evening, Thomas Bullock wrote: “Our camp was stiller to night than it has been since we left Fort [Laramie.]”

Mormon Ferry, Wyoming:

The ferrymen divided into two companies. The first company would stay at the ferry and the second would journey back to Fort Laramie to meet the second pioneer company. Those who stayed at the ferry were: William Empey, John Higbee (who was sick), Appleton Harmon, Luke Johnson, James Davenport, and Eric Glines (who had come back from the pioneers.) Those who left for Fort Laramie were ferrymen, Thomas Grover, Francis M. Pomeroy, Edmund Ellsworth, and Benjamin F. Stewart. Also returning were: pioneers, Aaron Farr, George Woodward, and Phinehas Young, and battalion members William Walker, John Cazier, and Jonathan Pugmire.

After the brethren left the ferry site, the rest were busy drying buffalo meat.

On the Platte River, Nebraska:

The “Big Company” of pioneers started the day’s journey at 7 a.m. They crossed a “multitude” of trodden down buffalo paths that led from the bluffs to the river. Isaac C. Haight went to hunt buffalo. He chased a herd but fell off his horse and lost the chase.

Winter Quarters:

It was very hot in Winter Quarters. Hosea Stout’s last living child, Marinda Stout, born at Garden Grove, was very sick and Brother Stout feared that she was dying.

Delia Ann Covey, age one month, died of consumption. Clarinda McCoulough, died of consumption. She was the wife of Levi McCoulough.

Kearny detachment of the battalion, in Idaho:

The detachment reached the Oregon Trail at noon, and followed it to the east, toward Fort Hall. They reached the Columbia River.

Company B, Mormon Battalion, marching to Los Angeles:

During the day the battalion company crossed over a plain where they saw about twenty thousand cattle and horses grazing. The hills could be seen covered with cattle, horses, sheep, and goats.

Sources:

Watson, ed., The Orson Pratt Journals, 445; “Luke S. Johnson Journal,” typescript, BYU, 16; Kenney, ed., Wilford Woodruff’s Journal, 3:229; “Albert P. Rockwood Journal,” typescript, BYU, 62; Howard Egan Diary, Pioneering the West, 95; “The Journal of Nathaniel V. Jones,” Utah Historical Quarterly, 4:21; Appleton Milo Harmon Goes West, 40, 41; “The Journal of Robert S. Bliss,” Utah Historical Quarterly, 4:111; Bagley, ed., The Pioneer Camp of the Saints, 225‑26; Brooks, ed., On the Mormon Frontier, 1:266; The Personal Writings of Eliza Roxcy Snow, 184; Smart, ed., Mormon Midwife, 91; “Isaac C. Haight Journal,” typescript, 42

Wednesday, July 14, 1847

Advance Company in Echo Canyon, Utah

The advance company traveled through Echo Canyon. Orson Pratt wrote: “Our journey down Red Fork has truly been very interesting and exceedingly picturesque. We have been shut up in a narrow valley from 10 to 20 rods wide, while upon each side the hills rise very abruptly from 800 to 1200 feet, and the most of the distance we have been walled in by vertical and overhanging precipices of red pudding‑stone, and also red sand‑stone.” Levi Jackman added: “The valley was fertile but very narrow and the hills on both sides were several hundred feet high. In many places it was difficult passing. A little before night we struck the Weber Fork and camped. We came about 14 miles today.” Their plans were to follow the Weber River to the valley.¹⁷

Main Camp, near Cache Cave, Utah:

Wilford Woodruff and Barnabas Adams traveled back to the rear company, to see how the sick were doing.¹⁸

Thomas Bullock sat in the cool cave all day and caught up on his writing. Many of the other brethren spent the day hunting and killed several antelope.

Wilford Woodruff returned in the evening and brought back news regarding the sick in the rear company. A meeting was called around Willard Richards’ wagon. It was decided to hitch up and move the camp a short distance in the morning.

William Clayton wrote about the mountain fever:

There are one or two new cases of sickness in our camp, mostly with fever which is very severe on the first attack, generally rendering its victims delirious for some hours, and then leaving them in a languid, weakly condition. It appears that a good dose of pills or medicine is good to break the fever. The patient then needs some kind of stimulant to brace his nerves and guard him against another attack. I am satisfied that diluted spirits is good in this disease after breaking up the fever.

Rear Company at The Needles, Wyoming:

Wilford Woodruff and Barnabas Adams visited the rear company of sick brethren. They were pleased to see that Brigham Young was getting better and they ate supper with Heber C. Kimball. Wilford Woodruff planned to bring his carriage from the main camp in the morning for Brigham Young and Albert P. Rockwood to ride in.

Albert P. Rockwood’s fever still raged and he was delirious. He later wrote: “Br Lorenz Young and many others look upon me as dangerous ill. I so considered myself and so told the brethren that if no relief came in 24 hours, they might dig a hole to put me in.”

Howard Egan, Heber C. Kimball, Ezra T. Benson, and Lorenzo Young climbed to the top of a high mountain and offered prayers for the sick and for their families so far away.

Mormon Ferry, Wyoming:

The ferrymen started to move their belongings, six miles up the river where the feed was better. An emigrant company arrived and needed some blacksmithing performed. All the blacksmith tools were moved up the river and set up for business. Luke Johnson stayed at the ferry site overnight to guard the rest of the things that had not yet been moved up. During the night, he was bothered by wolves that wanted to eat the buffalo meat. Brother Johnson shot one, reloaded and fired again. “Then the gun burst. It burned his face and arm and hand considerably, and slightly wounded his other arm and hand. A piece of the lock or something passed through his hat with great violence, which closely grazed his head.”

On the Platte River, Nebraska:

The Jedediah M. Grant Company had difficulties and was delayed. During the night their herd broke out of the yard and crushed two wheels on Willard Snow’s wagon, killed a cow, broke of some horns, and broke the leg of a horse. They had to spend the day repairing Brother Snow’s wagon. The Charles C. Rich company remained behind with them. Abraham Smoot’s company passed them during the day.

The pioneers arrived at the location where the first pioneer company camped on May 9, 1847. They found the post, guideboard, and box with a letter and history of the journey up to that point. The guideboard stated that they were 300 miles from Winter Quarters. The company spotted several herds of buffalo and their hunters were successful in killing some for meat. Jedediah M. Grant showed Eliza R. Snow a buffalo skull on which was written, “All well ‑‑ feed bad ‑‑ we only 300 ms. from W.” It was dated May 9th.

Winter Quarters, Nebraska:

Daniel H. Wells, who was baptized into the Church the previous year, arrived from Nauvoo. Hosea Stout was surprised that he joined the Saints, but he observed that he now appeared to be an influential and faithful member of the Church.¹⁹

St. Louis, Missouri:

A son, James Munro Pyper, was born to John and Madaline Gardener Pyper.

Kearny detachment of battalion, west of Fort Hall Idaho:

The Kearny detachment of the Mormon Battalion met several companies of Oregon emigrants. These emigrants were certainly among those who came in contact with the pioneers and may have let the Mormon Battalion members know that they met the pioneers on the Oregon Trail in Wyoming. One of these emigrants wrote that the Kearny party was “anxious to buy provisions but we were afraid to sell. They report peace in California and were anxious to obtain newspapers which were very scarce.”

Company B, Mormon Battalion, marching to Los Angeles

The company traveled twenty miles and camped at Riota Ranch where there was an excellent spring.

Sources:

Howard Egan Diary, Pioneering the West, 95‑6; “Albert P. Rockwood Journal,” typescript, BYU, 62; Kenney, ed., Wilford Woodruff’s Journal, 3:229‑30; Autobiography of John Brown, 77; Watson, ed., The Orson Pratt Journals, 446; Bagley, ed., The Pioneer Camp of the Saints, 225‑26; William Clayton’s Journal, 292; “Levi Jackman Autobiography,” typescript, BYU, 39; “The Journal of Robert S. Bliss,” Utah Historical Quarterly, 4:111; Appleton Milo Harmon Goes West, 40, 41; “The Journal of Nathaniel V. Jones,” Utah Historical Quarterly, 4:21; Brooks, ed., On the Mormon Frontier, 1:266; The Personal Writings of Eliza Roxcy Snow, 184; Yurtinus, A Ram in the Thicket, 520

Thursday, July 15, 1847

Advance Company on Weber River, Utah

The advance company journeyed down Weber River, crossing over onto the south bank. After six miles they halted about one mile from the canyon which looked impassable for wagons. Orson Pratt and John Brown rode four miles down the canyon and then returned to camp convinced that this route would be very difficult. While they were gone, Stephen Markham and others searched for the Donner‑Reed trail that cut across the mountains to the south. Orson Pratt and John Brown also went searching for this trail and soon found it, but the grass had grown up, making it very difficult to discern. Orson Pratt followed the trail up a ravine for six miles and then returned to the advance company camp.²⁰

Main Camp, near Cache Cave, Utah:

Wilford Woodruff left camp early in the morning, right after breakfast, with his carriage and horses. In two hours he arrived at Brigham Young’s camp. He made a comfortable bed for President Young and Albert P. Rockwood in his carriage, and the rear company started out. Brother Rockwood wrote: “I was very weak & low, not able to set up in the carriage, yet I stood the journey very well. So did B Young.”

At noon, Brigham Young, Heber C. Kimball and others with eight wagons arrived into the main camp. Orders were given for the company to harness up. During this time a refreshing shower cooled them off.

At 3:30 p.m., after four and a half miles, they formed their camp at the foot of some high, red bluffs [Castle Bluffs]. The feed was good and there was a beautiful spring of cool water to the left of the road.

Mormon Ferry, Wyoming:

James Davenport and Appleton Harmon were busy doing blacksmith work. Eric Glines traveled down the river for some coal and other items at the ferry site. William Empey and John Higbee dried buffalo meat and tended the cattle.

On the Platte River, Nebraska:

The companies had to travel over some sandy bluffs, away from the river, in order to avoid swampy land. They camped at a spring of cold water. Patty Sessions put some milk in it to cool. Because of problems with cattle, it was thought best to begin forming the wagon circles as companies of fifty rather than larger groups. Large numbers of buffalo were beginning to be seen.

Kearny detachment of the battalion, near Fort Hall, Idaho:

The Kearny detachment of the Mormon Battalion reached Fort Hall. They stopped for just a short time and obtained some bacon. Nathaniel Jones wrote that they saw “a great many emigrants. The road is full of them.”

Company B, Mormon Battalion, marching to Los Angeles

The battalion recognized that this was their last official day as soldiers in the United States army. Company B marched nine miles, crossed the San Gabriel River, marched nine more miles, and arrived at Los Angeles. Robert S. Bliss wrote: “This is the most beautiful place I ever saw as to some things. The orchards & vineyards are as fine as heart can wish. Here I drinked of the juice of the vine to my satisfaction & eat most delicious pears &c.”

Sources:

William Clayton’s Journal, 293; Watson, ed., The Orson Pratt Journals, 446; Kenney, ed., Wilford Woodruff’s Journal, 3:230; “Albert P. Rockwood Journal,” typescript, BYU, 63; The Personal Writings of Eliza Roxcy Snow, 184; Smart, ed., Mormon Midwife, 91; “Jesse W. Crosby Journal,” typescript, BYU, 36; Appleton Milo Harmon Goes West, 40, 41; “The Journal of Robert S. Bliss,” Utah Historical Quarterly, 4:111; “The Journal of Nathaniel V. Jones,” Utah Historical Quarterly, 4:21

Friday, July 16, 1847

Advance Company on Weber River, Utah:

Orrin Porter Rockwell was sent back to the main camp to report that they thought it best to follow the Donner‑Reed trail over the mountains rather than the Hastings trail down Weber Canyon. While he was away, the advance company started their journey up a small stream, sending ahead a dozen men to work with spades, axes, and other tools to clear the road. After ascending six miles, a five- hundred-foot elevation climb, they crossed over a ridge²¹ and then descended into a ravine. After two and a half more miles which took four hours to travel, they camped for the night. Levi Jackman and Lyman Curtis were sick.²² After camp was established, Orson Pratt and Elijah Newman walked further down the ravine to examine the road. They saw evidence that the Donners and Reeds had spent several hours’ effort working on the road, but evidently gave up and turned back up the ravine taking a detour.

Main Company in Echo Canyon, Utah:

After a morning rain-shower, the main company started at 8:45 and entered Echo Canyon. They had difficulty crossing the creek and Harvey Pierce’s wagon broke, but was soon repaired. William Clayton wrote: “The mountains seem to increase in height, and come so near together in some places as to leave merely room enough for a crooked road.” Norton Jacob added: “We came into this valley which looks more cheering than the arid desert we have been passing through.”

They halted for the noon rest, deep in Echo Canyon. There was plenty of grass, but no timber except for a few cedar trees on the sides of the mountains. Orrin Porter Rockwell returned from the advance company, reporting their location and the route taken. He explained that they could not follow the Hastings route through Weber Canyon but were instead going over the mountains following the route taken by the Donner‑Reed party. As the animals fed, a few men hiked to the top of one of the mountains on the north side of the canyon. William Clayton said that they “looked like babes in size.”

At 1:40 p.m., the company continued into the canyon which became narrower and narrower. It seemed strange to them that a road could ever be made in the narrow canyon. At some points they could only see two wagons ahead. They crossed the creek several times with some difficulty. Patches of oak shrubbery were appearing and more groves of trees. The elderberries were in bloom. The high red cliffs on both sides were very impressive.

After traveling a total of sixteen miles, they camped for the night in Echo Canyon. William Clayton wrote of the canyon: “We are yet enclosed by high mountains on each side, and this is the first good camping place we have seen since noon, not for lack of grass or water, but on account of the narrow gap between the mountains.” Erastus Snow recorded: “Toward night, for about one‑half or three‑quarters of a mile, the whole camp seemed perfectly immerged in a dense thicket of large shrubbery and weeds with scattering trees which filled the valley. As we emerged from the thicket we passed through some extensive beds of what mountaineers call ‘wild wheat,’ small patches of which we have seen all the way from Bear River.” This grass was as high as ten feet tall near the creek. Solomon Chamberlain broke his wagon two miles back. John Wheeler unloaded his wagon and went back to retrieve the axletree to be mended.

Echo Canyon received its name of course because of the echoes heard. William Clayton wrote:

There is a very singular echo in this ravine, the rattling of wagons resembles carpenters hammering at boards inside the highest rocks. The report of a rifle resembles a sharp crack of thunder and echoes from rock to rock for some time. The lowing of cattle and braying of mules seem to be answered beyond the mountains. Music, especially brass instruments, have a very pleasing effect and resemble a person standing inside the rock imitating every note. The echo, the high rocks on the north, high mountains on the south with the narrow ravine for a road, form a scenery at once romantic and more interesting than I have ever witnessed.

After camp was established, some of the men tried their hand at mountain climbing. William Clayton warned: “The ascent is so steep that there is scarce a place to be found to place the foot flat and firm, and the visitor is every moment, if he makes the least slip or stumbles, in danger of being precipitated down to the bottom and once overbalanced, there is no possibility of stopping himself till he gets to the bottom, in which case he would doubtless be dashed to pieces.”

William Clayton climbed to the top of a mountain and could see the Weber River ahead. To the rear he could only see ranges of mountains. The descent which was a much more difficult task than the climb, but he returned to camp before dark. Wilford Woodruff went one mile more down Echo Canyon and fished in Weber River. He caught a trout for Brigham Young.

Big Sandy River, Wyoming:

About 150 miles behind the main company, the detachments of the Mormon Battalion and the Mississippi Saints were camping on Big Sandy River, east of Fort Bridger. The soldiers celebrated the end of their enlistment in the army with a salute of guns at daylight. John Steele noted that this salute “let every one of Uncle Sam’s officers know we were our own men once more. We still kept up our organization, and respected the command as usual, and was rather better than some had been before.”

Mormon Ferry, Wyoming:

In the late afternoon, a wedding was held at the camp. Jacob Cooper and Kittean Hucklebee of an Indiana company were married. Fourteen men arrived at the river crossing, heading east with fifty pack horses and mules. This company had met the pioneers near Fort Bridger.²³

On the North Platte River, Nebraska:

The second company traveled about twelve miles and saw thousands of buffalo. Jesse W. Crosby wrote: “On each side of the river, hills, and valleys were literally covered with them.” The grass was very short, eaten by all the buffalo. After camp was established, a herd of buffalo ran into one of the camps among the oxen and cattle. One of the buffalo was shot in full view of the women and children.

Sarah Rich wrote:

Some days we could see herds of thousands together, and several times they would come in large herds crossing just ahead of our teams as hard as they could go, and in such large numbers that the roaring of them would frighten our teams. It was all that the drivers could do to prevent a stampede among our cattle. It was dangerous traveling through this country, but we were preserved from serious accident. It was a grand sight to see these herds of wild animals, thousands of them, racing across the prairies. The sight of our wagons seemed to frighten them, and we were afraid they might attack us in their fright.

Kearny detachment of battalion, Bear River Valley, Idaho:

The Mormon Battalion members of the Kearny detachment noted that their enlistment was up, but they weren’t discharged and continued serving with the detachment riding to the east.

Mount Pisgah, Iowa:

A daughter, Abigail Harriet Snow, was born to Lorenzo Snow and his wife.

Mormon Battalion, in Los Angeles, California:

The battalion was mustered and formerly discharged from their year’s service in the United States Army. They received their discharge from their former commander, Lieutenant Andrew Jackson Smith. Azariah Smith wrote: “At 3 o’clock P.m. the five companies of the battalion were formed according to the letter of their company, with A in front and E in the rear, leaving a few feet of space in between. The [notorious] Lieutenant A. J. Smith then marched down between the lines, then in a low tone of voice said, ‘You are discharged.’” The men were pleased that the despised Lt. Smith’s remarks were very short. Captain Daniel Davis, Lt. James Pace, Lt. Andrew Lytle, Levi Hancock and David Pettigrew all made remarks followed by three cheers.

Robert S. Bliss wrote: “I felt to thank my Heavenly Father that I had been preserved to accomplish the work I was sent to do thus far.” The men could not leave for home yet, because they had not yet received their pay. Many of them traveled three miles and camped on the San Pedro River.

Levi Hancock recorded: “The 16 of July has come and what there has passed I cannot tell only there has been a great struggle for power and to get us enlisted again I said I would not and many others say the same such crualty on soldiers I never saw men chained and a ball hung to them and to ware it for 6, 8 or 10 months gagued and imprisoned.”

Those who reenlisted for six months were put under the leadership of Captain Davis and prepared to march to San Diego.

Sources:

William Clayton’s Journal, 294; Kenney, ed., Wilford Woodruff’s Journal, 3:230; “Erastus Snow Journal Excerpts,” Improvement Era 15:360; Watson, ed., The Orson Pratt Journals, 448; Appleton Milo Harmon Goes West, 40-1; “Journal of William Empey,” Annals of Wyoming, 21:140; Smart, ed., Mormon Midwife, 91; The Personal Writings of Eliza Roxcy Snow, 185; Jesse W. Crosby Journal, typescript, BYU, 36; “The Journal of Robert S. Bliss,” Utah Historical Quarterly, 4:111; Eugene E. Campbell, BYU Studies, 8:2:141; “Norton Jacob Journal,” typescript, 105; Bagley, ed., Frontiersman, 54; “Levi Jackman Autobiography,” typescript, BYU, 39; “The Journal of Nathaniel V. Jones,” Utah Historical Quarterly, 4:21; Hoshide & Bagley, eds., “The 1847 Donner Camp Diary of Levi Hancock”; “Sarah Rich Autobiography,” typescript, BYU, 75

Saturday, July 17, 1847

Advance Company in Broad Hollow, Utah:

A severe frost fell on the company during the night. Early in the morning, Orson Pratt went ahead on foot to examine the country to see if there was a better route to take down Broad Hollow. He was soon convinced that they had taken the best and only practical route. He met a large grey wolf as he was returning. Orson Pratt gave orders that the company should not proceed further until more labor was performed on the previous day’s road.

While all the men worked, Orson Pratt and John Brown went ahead to explore. They traveled down [East] Canyon Creek for about 3 miles and discovered that this route would be impossible to follow because the creek passed through a very narrow canyon that had a huge boulder at the foot of the canyon. So instead they followed the dim Donner‑Reed trail that climbed up East Canyon for eight miles, crossing the creek thirteen times. The road would require much labor to make it usable by the wagons. They left the horses and climbed a mountain summit which appeared to be two thousand feet higher. Orson Pratt wrote: “The country exhibited a broken succession of hills piled on hills, and mountains on mountains, in every direction.” They returned and found the advance company had gone on about five miles from their morning camp and ended up in East Canyon.

Main Company in Echo Canyon, Utah:

Brigham Young had a rough night and was very sick again. A forge was set up during the morning to repair Solomon Chamberlain’s axletree. The cattle and mules were very uneasy during the morning because they could hear their echoes and must have though these were other animals answering their calls. Nine horses were lost in the morning. It was decided to journey on while some men went back to repair Brother Chamberlain’s wagon and while others hunted for the lost horses.²⁴

At 9:40 a.m., the main company pressed on and soon came to the Weber River. They turned to the right and traveled down the river. The valley had opened up, allowing them to again see snow on the mountain tops.

Brigham Young, so very sick, soon could not endure any more traveling. A camp was selected, a few miles further, on the banks of the river. William Clayton wrote: “The day very hot and mosquitoes plentiful; Several of the brethren have caught some fine trout in this stream which appears to have many in it. In the afternoon Elders Kimball, Richards, Smith, Benson and others went onto a mountain to clothe and pray for President Young. They also prayed for their families far away. Howard Egan recorded: “We had a glorious time, and I thank the Lord for the privilege.” On returning they rolled down many large rocks from the top of the mountain “to witness the velocity of their descent, etc. Some would roll over half a mile and frequently break to pieces.”

In the evening, Heber C. Kimball, George A. Smith, and Howard Egan rode down the river to investigate the entrance into Weber Canyon. They returned at 10 p.m. after riding eight miles down the river, but they did not reach the canyon.

Mormon Ferry, Wyoming:

The men obtained timber to construct a coal pit. In the afternoon, the emigrant company started to move out, leaving just the six ferrymen alone at the river.

On the North Platte River, Nebraska:

During the night, many cattle belonging to one of the companies broke out of their yard. About twenty yoke of oxen could not be found. Patty Sessions wrote of this day: “I gather a few dry weeds, built a little fire on a buffalo dung, broiled some meat for my dinner, drank sweeten ginger and water. I have seen many thousands of buffalo to day. One crossed our track just forward of us. We had a fair view of him.”

Great joy was felt when the company met some trappers heading east. Theses mountain men said they had met Brigham Young’s pioneer company at South Pass. (See June 27, 1847). They also mentioned that several of the pioneers had been left at the North Platte River crossing and were operating a ferry. They said that they had seen as many as forty head of oxen lost by Oregon emigrants, roaming with a herd of buffalo. The trappers also had brought back letters from the Brigham Young’s company of pioneers.

As the pioneer companies were sleeping during the night, they were alarmed by the bellowing of a huge herd of buffalo on the other side of the river.

Kearny detachment of battalion, Bear River Valley, Idaho:

The detachment came upon some hot springs on the Bear River.²⁵

Mount Pisgah, Iowa:

Alvah Hancock, age fifty-one, died. He was the husband of Juletta Eames Hancock.

Los Angeles, California:

Henry Bigler recorded: “All hands were now busy making preparations to leave for their homes wherever that was; whether on Bear River, California, or Vancouver Island up in the British possession. For the truth is we do not know where President Young and the Church is!”

Sources:

William Clayton’s Journal, 297; “Norton Jacob Journal,” typescript, 105; Watson, ed., The Orson Pratt Journals, 449‑50; “Levi Jackman Autobiography,” typescript, BYU, 39; “Journal of William Empey,” Annals of Wyoming, 21:140; The Personal Writings of Eliza Roxcy Snow, 185; Smart, ed., Mormon Midwife, 91; “William Scearce Journal,” typescript, 1; “The Journal of Nathaniel V. Jones,” Utah Historical Quarterly, 4:21; “Jesse W. Crosby Journal,” typescript, 37

Sunday, July 18, 1847

Advance Company in East Canyon, Utah:

The Advance company rested. The morning was cold, with white frost covering the ground. It became very hot during the day. A meeting was held in the morning at which Orson Pratt gave the company good words of encouragement.

Main Company on Weber River, Utah:

The camp was called together by Heber C. Kimball. He reported that Brigham Young was still very sick. He asked the brethren to stop scattering off hunting, fishing and climbing mountains. Instead on this Sabbath day, he asked them to pray to the Lord that the sickness might be taken from President Brigham Young. Wilford Woodruff testified that the devil was “constantly striving to hinder our progress and thwart the purposes of God and now by causing the president to be sick, hindering our progress in getting through in time to return to our families this fall.”

At 10 a.m., a meeting was held in a small grove of shrubs. Elder Kimball proposed that the main body of pioneers go on ahead to find a place to plant potatoes and other crops. There was very little time to spare. About fifteen wagons would remain behind with Brigham Young. Those who would stay behind would include Heber C. Kimball, Wilford Woodruff, Ezra T. Benson, Howard Egan, and others. This proposal was accepted.

At 2 p.m., another meeting was held. Several of the brethren spoke including Elder Kimball, who prophesied wonderful things concerning the camp. The bishops broke bread and the sacrament was administered. William Clayton recorded: “Good feelings seem to prevail and the brethren desire to do right. A number yet continue sick, but we expect all will soon recover.” Erastus Snow wrote: “We had an excellent meeting. The Holy Spirit was upon us, and faith seemed to spring up in every bosom. In the afternoon the President, who had been nigh unto death, was very sensibly better, and the effects of the prayers of the brethren were visible throughout the camp.” President Young had been washed and anointed, fell asleep, and awoke feeling much better.

In the evening Wilford Woodruff, Heber C. Kimball and Ezra T. Benson went into a high hill and prayed together. They enjoyed conversing upon things pertaining to the Kingdom of God.

Mormon Ferry, Wyoming:

The rest of the Oregon emigrants left the ferry crossing. They told the ferrymen that more than a hundred head of cattle had been lost by the last several emigrant company. The ferrymen believed the cause of this loss was from driving the cattle too hard without water.

On the North Platte River, Nebraska:

Patty Sessions baked some mince pies, bread, and meat over buffalo dung. At 11 a.m., a public Sabbath meeting was held. Jedediah M. Grant’s company, twenty miles behind, had lost seventy-five head of cattle two nights earlier and some men were sent out to help find them. The men were told to quit killing buffalo needlessly. They were told this they of action “was a disgrace to the people and displeasing to the Lord.”

At 4 p.m., another meeting was held at which letters from the men at the North Platte Ferry were read. The ferrymen reported that they had ferried across four hundred Oregon emigrant wagons. After the meeting, a baptismal service was held for many of the youth. Confirmations were given and many children were blessed.

Sanford Bingham and Martha Ann Lewis were married.²⁶

Summer Quarters, Nebraska:

John D. Lee was asked to go quickly to Samuel Gully, to administer to him. Brother Gully was cramped up and nearly dying. He soon recovered after the blessing. Others in Summer Quarters had a similar illness. John D. Lee traveled to Winter Quarters because he had been summoned to appear before the High Council.

Winter Quarters, Nebraska:

A Council meeting was held in the morning to consider reports of evils in the settlement of Garden Grove, including stealing and gambling. Orson Hyde pressed to have the whole settlement cut off from them Church. The subject was “warmly debated” and the motion was carried by the majority of the High Council to cut off Garden Grove from the Church.

Later in the afternoon, Isaac Morley spoke at the Winter Quarters stand. In the evening the High Council heard several cases. James Clayton was reprimanded for firing pistols on the Sabbath. John Berry accused John D. Lee of allowing his horse to be lost and said Brother Lee had not reimbursed him for this loss. The High Council heard witnesses and decided that Brother Lee was not at fault but that he should not charge Brother Berry for the use of his own mule or for boarding the horse before it was lost.

Mormon Battalion, in Los Angeles:

The battalion started to receive their pay. They each received $31.50, but did not receive the promised transportation money to return home.

Sources:

William Clayton’s Journal, 300; Kenney, ed., Wilford Woodruff’s Journal, 3:213; “Erastus Snow Journal Excerpts,” Improvement Era 15:361; “Norton Jacob Journal,” typescript, 105‑06; Watson, ed., The Orson Pratt Journals, 450; Smart, ed., Mormon Midwife, 91; Brooks, ed., On the Mormon Frontier, 1:265‑66; Kelly, ed., Journals of John D. Lee, 189‑93; “Levi Jackman Autobiography,” typescript, BYU, 40; “William Scearce Journal,” typescript, 1; Cook, Joseph C. Kingsbury, 120; “Jesse W. Crosby Journal,” typescript, 37; “Journal of William Empey,” Annals of Wyoming, 21:140; Hoshide & Bagley, eds., “The 1847 Donner Camp Diary of Levi Hancock”

Monday, July 19, 1847

Advance Company in East Canyon, Utah:

Orson Pratt and John Brown left shortly after sunrise to scout the road ahead. They traveled up East Canyon and then climbed four miles up to a ridge. They then left their horses and climbed Big Mountain. Orson Pratt wrote: “Both from the ridge where the road crossed, and from the mountain peak, we could see over a great extent of the country. On the south‑west we could see an extensive level prairie, some few miles distant, which we thought must be near the Lake.” John Brown added: “Here we had a view of the valley for the first time. We went on to the mountain to the right and saw what we supposed to be one corner of Salt Lake.”

After finding the wagon trail used by the Donner‑Reed party to climb Little Emigration Canyon, they head back toward the advance company’s camp. They found them more than six miles further up East Canyon. The advance company had crossed over East Canyon Creek about eight or nine times. Much work had been accomplished on improving the road. The company rejoiced in hearing that the brethren had viewed the valley. Orrin Porter Rockwell returned and reported that the main company of pioneers was only a few miles behind. He brought back instructions from Brigham Young, who said that when they arrived in the valley, they were to turn a little to the north and plant seeds of all kind.²⁷

Main Company on Weber River, Utah:

Brigham Young was feeling much better. The main company departed at 7:45 a.m. on a rough road down Weber River. They were under the leadership of John Pack. After two miles, they forded the river which was only eighteen inches deep. Erastus Snow asked the company to halt until Willard Richards caught up. One of his oxen was missing, but he still wished to be with the main company. They proceeded on until the turnoff to ascend the hills on the Donner‑Reed trail.

The main company found the cutoff and William Clayton put up a sign that read, “Pratt’s Pass to avoid canyon. To Fort Bridger 74 1/4 miles.” The company soon started to slowly make their way up the mountain. The road was rough and crooked, quite dangerous for wagons. At the top of the ridge, William Clayton put up another guide board that read: “80 miles to Fort Bridger.”²⁸ At this point, Heber C. Kimball, Wilford Woodruff, George A. Smith, and Howard Egan rode up from the rear company to view the road. The descent into the next ravine was not very steep, but it was dangerous because of large cobblestones that made the wagons slide.

At 2 p.m., the main company stopped for a rest and then continued on at 3:30. They soon ascended a very long steep hill for nearly a mile, and then they descended another crooked road. At 5:30 p.m., they camped near some willow bushes full of mosquitoes inside East Canyon. Erastus Snow wrote: “Here the road took up the creek south, and the snowy mountains, encircling us on the south and west, rearing their heads above the intervening mountains, showed us plainly that our climbing was not yet at an end.” George A. Smith’s wagon was damaged, but they quickly made a coal pit, and Burr Frost set up his blacksmith tools to reset the tire.

Rear Company on Weber River, Utah:

Wilford Woodruff drove Brigham Young in his carriage for five miles and at this point stopped for breakfast. They had driven with the main camp for two miles and then parted. President Young still had a fever but was feeling better. Those traveling with Brigham Young and Wilford Woodruff included Ezra T. Benson, Heber C. Kimball, Howard Egan, Lorenzo Young, and his family, Hosea Cushing,²⁹ and Carlos Murray. The company consisted of fifteen wagons. They camped on the Weber River.

Fort Bridger, Wyoming:

The Mormon Battalion detachments and the Mississippi Saints arrived at Fort Bridger. Abner Blackburn wrote: “Old Jim Bridger and his trappers gave us a hearty welcome to our company. He is the oldest trapper in the mountains and can tell some wonderful stories.” John Steele recorded: “Captain Brown invited me to go ahead with him to Fort Bridger. We found the old mountaineer and in conversation he told us we could not live in Salt Lake Valley for it froze every month in the year and he would give us a thousand dollars for the first ear of corn raised there.”

Kearny detachment, Bear River Valley, Wyoming:

The Kearny detachment met Charles Smith, who had come from California with Samuel Brannan and had recently met with Brigham Young and the pioneers. He shared information about the California Saints and certainly also talked about the pioneers.

Mormon Ferry, Wyoming:

Luke Johnson and Eric Glines went hunting. In the afternoon as they were returning without any luck, Brother Johnson’s horse became frightened as they were following a little creek. They soon discovered some bear cubs in a thicket and Brother Johnson dismounted with his 11‑shooter. William Empey later recorded: “The moment he struck the ground, the [mother] bear discovered him & came towards him at the top of her speed with her mouth wide open & each jump accompanied with an awah awah oo.” Luke Johnson stood his ground. When the bear was within twenty feet with three of her cubs at her heels, he aimed and fired. The grizzly bear turned to run, but soon fell dead. Brothers Johnson and Glines returned to camp with the meat, hide, and the exciting tale.

On the North Platte River, Nebraska:

The Jedediah M. Grant Company’s missing cattle could not be found. Some of the other companies continued on and crossed some bluffs. Several oxen were found which had probably belonged to Oregon emigrants. The Grant Company was twenty‑five miles behind the lead companies, stranded without enough oxen.

About this time, George Washington Hill experienced an amusing incident:

In running the buffalo along the [North] Platte there was a buffalo cow, in jumping down the bank broke one of her forelegs. This crippled her, so that we concluded to drive her to camp and butcher her, but when we went into the river to driver her out, she only drove at us. We continued driving until she drove us clear across the river which was about two miles wide, but when she got to the bank she refused to go up, so we threw two lariats on her and undertook to pull her up, but she was too good at holding back. I then went into the river and took my butcher knife and would prod her in the rump, thinking to make her go up that way, but it was no go. Finally, Br. Smoot took a bit of a run and jumped straddle of her, thinking to ride her up the bank, but she kicked so when I was prodding her that she was just as wet as water would make her, which made her so slick he never made any stop on her, but landed head foremost in the river. But she concluded that she had rather go up the bank alone than to be rode up, so up she went charging.

Summer Quarters, Nebraska:

John D. Lee returned to Summer Quarters and found David I. Young near death with the strange disease that had come upon several in the settlement. Brother Young was overcome with joy to see Brother Lee because he wanted Brother Lee to baptize him before he died.³⁰ Brothers Martin and Allen came in to assist, but when they put Brother Young in a chair he was so weak that he kept fainting, so they could not baptize him. Brother Lee promised Brother Young that he would be baptized as proxy for him and told Brother Young to rest. He stopped struggling and soon died.

Sources:

William Clayton’s Journal, 300; Watson, ed., The Orson Pratt Journals, 450‑51; Autobiography of John Brown, 78; Kenney, ed., Wilford Woodruff’s Journal, 3:231; “Luke S. Johnson Journal,” typescript, BYU, 17; “Erastus Snow Journal Excerpts,” Improvement Era 15:361‑62; Howard Egan Diary, Pioneering the West, 97‑8; “Levi Jackman Autobiography,” typescript, BYU, 40; “Journal of William Empey,” Annals of Wyoming, 21:140‑41; “Jesse W. Crosby Journal,” typescript, BYU, 37; “William Scearce Journal,” typescript, 2; The Personal Writings of Eliza Roxcy Snow, 185; Bagley, ed., Frontiersman, 61; “The Journal of Nathaniel V. Jones,” Utah Historical Quarterly, 4:21; Kelly, ed., Journals of John D. Lee, 193‑94; “Incidents in the Life of George Washington Hill,” in Madsen, Journey to Zion, 365

Tuesday, July 20, 1847

Advance Company in East Canyon, Utah:

Orson Pratt wrote a letter describing the road and country ahead which he had scouted out the previous day. He left the letter in a conspicuous place for the companies that would follow. The advance company resumed their journey at 9 a.m., being somewhat delayed by the stray cattle that they had had to locate. They climbed the road up Little Emigration Canyon to Big Mountain. Brother Pratt measured the top of the mountain to be 7245 feet above sea level. They descended down the other side and camped at the base of Little Mountain. Levi Jackman wrote: “Our journey for a number of days had been rather gloomy. The mountains on both sides have been so high and the ravines so cracked that we could see but a short distance and it looked as though we were shut up in a gulf without any chance for escape.” They noticed that much of the timber near the top of Big Mountain had been burned by forest fires.

Main Company in East Canyon, Utah:

Burr Frost was very busy in the morning repairing wagons that had been damaged coming down the hill into East Canyon.³¹ The company continued their journey at 11 a.m. Word came from the advance company via one of the Mississippi brethren, Brother Crow, that they were nine miles ahead. Word was pased back that the road ahead was rough. The men in the main company worked hard to continue improving the road for those who would follow. Some of the men in the company had fallen ill and were left behind for the rear company along with three wagons.

After four hard miles, the main company rested their teams and ate dinner. William Clayton wrote: “The road over which we have traveled is through an uneven gap between high mountains and is exceedingly rough and crooked. Not a place to be met with scarcely where there would be room to camp for the dense willow groves all along the bottom.”

They traveled on until after 5 p.m. They had crossed East Canyon Creek eleven times. Brother Clayton commented: “The road is one of the most crooked I ever saw, many sharp turns in it and the willow stubs standing making it very severe on wagons.” The campground in East Canyon was so cramped that the wagons had to huddle very closely together. This was the camp ground used by the advance company the night before.³² They found a letter from Orson Pratt stating that the next campground was eleven miles ahead, over Big Mountain. Willard Richards and George A. Smith decided to send Erastus Snow ahead with a letter for Orson Pratt instructing the two of them to go down into the valley to explore it and find a good place to plant some crops.

Rear Company on Weber River, Utah:

The rear company got an early start at 5:30 a.m., thinking it was best to travel in the cool morning. They crossed Weber River and soon came to William Clayton’s guide board directing them up to “Pratt’s Pass.” After another two miles, they stopped for breakfast near a cool brook of water. Howard Egan and a few others went ahead to make further improvements on the road. The company continued on during the day and finally reached East Canyon Creek, where they found brethren who had remained behind because of illness including: Stephen H. Goddard, James Case, Henry G. Sherwood, Benjamin F. Dewey,³³ Brother Johnson, and William Smoot. They received word that George A. Smith’s wagon had broken and that Orson Pratt was about eight miles ahead. Brothers Johnson and Sherwood were baptized in the creek for their health. Wilford Woodruff confirmed them.

Kearny detachment, Oregon Trail, Wyoming:

The Kearny detachment of the Mormon Battalion started early and struck out across the mountain away from Bear River.

Mormon Ferry, Wyoming:

James Davenport and Appleton M. Harmon went in search of lost cattle. They ran into a company of emigrants who had found the cattle more than ten miles away. Luke Johnson and Eric Glines went out searching for the bear cubs they had seen the day before, but they could not find them.

On the North Platte River, Nebraska:

The Grant Company still could not find the lost oxen. Parley P. Pratt and John Taylor ordered that each company provide some oxen to be used by the Grant Company. Large herds of buffalo could be seen on both sides of the river. The leaders discussed whether they should cross over the Platte because of the numerous buffalo on the north side. The companies traveled on about twelve miles. Brother Noble called his company together in the evening for a prayer meeting.

Winter Quarters, Nebraska:

John Kay, age five months, died of summer complaint [cholera infantum]. He was the son of John M. and Ellen Partington Kay.

Summer Quarters, Nebraska:

Isaac Morley, John D. Lee, Levi Stewart, and Absalom P. Free walked to the south of Summer Quarters about one half mile and selected a location for a new cemetery. In the late afternoon, David I. Young was buried. About half of the settlement attended the funeral.

Los Angeles, California:

Those who chose to return to the Saints with Levi Hancock (about 164 men) were organized into groups of hundreds, fifties, and tens. Eight‑two men reenlisted for another six months. Henry Boyle wrote:

While a sufficient number of us have reenlisted to make one company, I did not like to reenlist, but I had no relatives in the Church to return to. I desired to remain in California til the Church became located, for it is impossible for us to leave here with provisions to last any considerable length of time. And if I stay here or any number of us, it is better for us to remain together, than to scatter all over creation.

Sources:

William Clayton’s Journal, 303; Howard Egan Diary, Pioneering the West, 98‑99; “Erastus Snow Journal Excerpts,” Improvement Era 15:407; Kenney, ed., Wilford Woodruff’s Journal, 3:231; Bagley, ed., The Pioneer Camp of the Saints, 230; Watson, ed., The Orson Pratt Journals, 450‑51; Autobiography of John Brown, 78; “Levi Jackman Autobiography,” typescript, BYU, 40; Kelly, ed., Journals of John D. Lee, 194‑95; “The Journal of Nathaniel V. Jones,” Utah Historical Quarterly, 4:21; “William Scearce Journal,” typescript, 2; “Jesse W. Crosby Journal,” typescript, BYU, 37; “Journal of William Empey,” Annals of Wyoming, 21:141; The Personal Writings of Eliza Roxcy Snow, 185; Ricketts, The Mormon Battalion, 261

Wednesday, July 21, 1847

Advance Company near Little Mountain, Utah:

Orson Pratt’s company ascended Little Mountain and then came down on the other side to the creek that runs through Emigration Canyon. They called the stream, “Last Creek.” Erastus Snow arrived during the morning from the main camp with instructions to explore the valley. So Orson Pratt and Erastus Snow rode on ahead down Emigration Canyon. They came to Donner Hill, a hill climbed by the Donner Party to avoid an area of blockage in the canyon.

Orson Pratt wrote:

Mr. Snow and myself ascended this hill, from the top of which a broad open valley, about 20 miles wide and 30 long, lay stretched out before us, at the north end of which the broad waters of the Great Salt Lake glistened in the sunbeams, containing high mountainous islands from 25 to 30 miles in extent. After issuing from the mountains among which we had been shut up for many days, and beholding in a moment such an extensive scenery open before us, we could not refrain from a shout of joy which almost involuntarily escaped from our lips the moment this grand and lovely scenery was within our view.

Erastus Snow added: “On ascending this butte we involuntarily both at the same instant, uttered a shout of joy at finding it to be the very place of our destination, and beheld the broad bosom of the Salt Lake spreading itself before us.”

They immediately descended into the valley and with just one horse between them traveled a circular 12‑mile route exploring the valley. Erastus Snow recorded: “We descended a gradual slope, some four miles towards the center of the valley, and visited several small creeks flowing from the mountains into the Utah outlet [Jordan River,] traveled some ten or twelve miles in the valley, and returned to the company about nine o’clock in the evening.”³⁴

While they were away, the advance company had climbed up Little Mountain. Levi Jackman wrote: “From the top of this hill, like Moses on Pisgah’s top, we could see a part of the Salt Lake Valley, our long anticipated home. We did truly rejoice at the sight.” They descended down into Emigration Canyon and a few also climbed Donner Hill to see a view of Great Salt Lake.

Main Company in East Canyon, Utah:

The main company journeyed onward at 6:30 a.m. They crossed East Canyon creek one more time and then started to gradually ascend Big Mountain via Little Emigration Canyon. They spent much time cutting down stumps and moving heavy rocks to improve the road. They saw much timber destroyed by fire near the top.

At 11 a.m., they arrived at Big Mountain Pass and caught their first glimpse of the Salt Lake Valley floor. William Clayton wrote: “From this ridge we can see an extensive valley to the west but on every other side high mountains, many of them white with snow. It seems as though a few hours’ travel might bring us out from the mountains on good road again.”

The road down the other side of Big Mountain was very steep. They had to lock their hind wheels for safety. The road was full of stumps, many of which were removed by the men. They found a bridge over a deep ravine which had been constructed by the advance company. Joseph Rooker tipped over his wagon at this point but did not experience much damage.³⁵ They rested their teams near a spring on the way down as the road leveled out somewhat. They pressed on and during the long afternoon climbed Little Mountain. At 7:30 p.m., they made their camp in Emigration Canyon, only about a half mile behind the advance company.

Rear Company in East Canyon, Utah:

The rear company with Brigham Young did not travel this day because of sickness. They worked at setting the wheel on John S. Fowler’s wagon. Heber C. Kimball, Ezra T. Benson, and Lorenzo Young explored up East Canyon. Wilford Woodruff went down the creek and caught eight small trout. He wrote: “The country is very mountainous, rough & steep.”

Mormon Ferry, Wyoming:

A company of eighteen men with sixty horses and mules heading east came to the river crossing. They reported seeing the pioneer company at Fort Bridger. William Empey wrote: “The remainder part of the day passed away very lonesome, we being in a strange land and far from our homes and families being near to us. We would often talk what we would give if we only knew the situation of them.”

On the North Platte River, Nebraska:

The second pioneer company traveled on. Jesse W. Crosby recorded: “Came in sight of buffalo, almost without number, the river for six miles swarmed with them. As we approached they ran in multitudes over the bluffs.” Some of the companies had to pass directly through the herd. Seventeen yoke of oxen were brought back to the Grant Company to help replace those that were lost. Eliza R. Snow wrote: “This is truly a land of buffalos ‑‑ they are in sight all the time ‑‑ an almost innumerable herd of them came over the bluff today & seem’d about to cross our Camp on their path to the river ‑‑ our hunters met them & they chang’d their course, much to our gratification.” That evening the cattle were very uneasy because of the sounds of numerous buffalo. Patty Sessions wrote: “I went into the waggon, looked out, saw them go round and round like a whirlpool, the men saying they would break and runaway. I knelt down and prayed for the Lord to quiet them. I arose, they were quite still. We went to bed, heard no more from them.”

Winter Quarters, Nebraska:

Don Carlos Smith, age ten months, died of diarrhea. He was the son of George A. and Lucy Smith.

Levi Hancock company, north of Los Angeles, California:

An advance group of former battalion soldiers started their journey to return to their families. Robert S. Bliss wrote: “Just 12 months ago to day we left C. Bluffs for this country & to day the camp commenced to move on for our destined home. [I] was appointed one of the Pioneers to go ahead of the main body, consequently we marched about 8 or 10 miles to day & encamped on the Purbelo River near a rancheros or farm; Some beautiful & picturesque mountains on either side of us.”

Sources:

William Clayton’s Journal, 304; Watson, ed., The Orson Pratt Journals, 452‑53; Autobiography of John Brown, 78; “Erastus Snow Journal Excerpts,” Improvement Era 15:407‑08; Kenney, ed., Wilford Woodruff’s Journal, 3:232; “Levi Jackman Autobiography,” typescript, BYU, 40; “Journal of William Empey,” Annals of Wyoming, 21:141; “Jesse W. Crosby Journal,” typescript, BYU, 37; Cook, Joseph C. Kingsbury, 120; The Personal Writings of Eliza Roxcy Snow, 185; Smart, ed., Mormon Midwife, 92; “The Journal of Robert S. Bliss,” Utah Historical Quarterly, 4:111; Journal of Discourses, 12:88‑9, August 11th, 1867

Thursday, July 22, 1847

Advance Company in Emigration Canyon, Utah:

Orson Pratt went to the main camp, a half mile back, to consult with members of the Twelve. It was decided to send a small group down into the valley to find a good place to start plowing and planting. So Orson Pratt, George A. Smith, John Brown, Joseph Matthews, John Pack, Orrin Porter Rockwell, Jesse C. Little, Erastus Snow, and one other man rode down to explore the valley. As they passed by Donner Hill, they determined that the obstructions in the canyon could be removed rather than hauling all of the wagons up the hill as the Donner‑Reed party did the previous year. They left a note on a pole instructing the main company to clear the road.

Orson Pratt wrote:

After going down into the valley about 5 miles, we turned our course to the north, down towards the Salt Lake. For 3 or 4 miles north we found the soil of a most excellent quality. Streams from the mountains and springs were very abundant, the water excellent, and generally with gravel bottoms. . . . We found the drier places swarming with very large crickets, about the size of a man’s thumb. This valley is surrounded with mountains, except on the north: the tops of some of the highest being covered with snow. Every 1 or 2 miles streams were emptying into it from the mountains on the east.

John Brown also noted the crickets and wrote: “There were hosts of black crickets all over the valley and apparently harmless.”

The pioneers discovered some hot springs. Orson Pratt wrote: “We found as we proceeded on, great numbers of hot springs issuing from near the base of the mountains. These springs were highly impregnated with salt and sulphur: the temperature of some was nearly raised to the boiling point.” Erastus Snow added:

It bursts from the base of a perpendicular ledge of rock about forty feet high and emits a volume of water sufficient for a mill. We had no instrument to determine the degree of temperature, but suffice it to say that it was about right for scalding hogs. Here are the greatest facilities for a steam doctor I ever saw. A stone, in the center of the stream before the aperture in the rocks, seemed to say, this is the seat for the patient. At any rate, I tried it, but had little desire to remain long upon it.

After traveling further toward the lake and finding the soil becoming sterile, they returned toward the canyon. Norton Jacob explained: “They got within some eight or ten miles of the Great Salt Lake, but it is hemmed in with small lakes, ponds and pools so that it appears difficult to get near it.”

Main Company in Emigration Canyon, Utah:

The main company of pioneers started out at 8:30 a.m., and soon caught up with the advance company working on the road in Emigration Canyon. They soon reached the obstruction in the canyon that caused the Donner‑Reed party to climb Donner Hill. Stephen Markham, like Orson Pratt, determined that the road would be too steep up the hill so instead the men were asked to spend a few hours clearing the obstructions so the road could continue down the canyon.

William Clayton wrote:

While the brethren were cutting the road, I followed the old one to the top of the hill and on arriving there was much cheered by a handsome view of the Great Salt Lake lying, as I should judge, from twenty‑five to thirty miles to the west of us; and at eleven o’clock I sat down to contemplate and view the surrounding scenery. . . . For my own part I am happily disappointed in the appearance of the valley of the Salt Lake, but if the land be as rich as it has the appearance of being, I have no fears but the Saints can live here and do well while we will do right. When I commune with my own heart and ask myself whether I would choose to dwell here in this wild looking country amongst the Saints surrounded by friends, though poor, enjoying the privileges and blessings of the everlasting priesthood, with God for our King and Father; or dwell amongst the gentiles with all their wealth and good things of the earth, to be eternally mobbed, harassed, hunted, our best men murdered and every good man’s life continually in danger, the soft whisper echoes loud and reverberates back in tones of stern determination; give me the quiet wilderness and my family to associate with, surrounded by the Saints and adieu to the gentile world till God says return and avenge you of your enemies.

Brother Clayton descended from Donner Hill into Emigration Canyon. He noted: “The ground seems literally alive with the very large black crickets crawling around up grass and bushes. They look loathsome but are said to be excellent for fattening hogs which would feed on them voraciously.”

After working four hours, the men cleared the way through Emigration Canyon, and the wagons continued their journey. Thomas Bullock wrote:

We succeeded in getting thro’ the narrow spot of the Kanyon about 4 o’clock, when we turned round the hill to the right & came in full view of the Salt Lake in the distance, with its bold hills on its Islands towering up in bold relief behind the Silvery Lake. A very extensive valley burst upon our view, dotted in 3 or 4 places with Timber. . . . I could not help shouting ‘hurra, hurra, hurra, there’s my home at last.

Levi Jackman added: “When we finally got through, it seemed like bursting from the confines of prison walls into the beauties of a world of pleasure and freedom. We now had entered the valley and our vision could extend far and wide. We were filled with joy and rejoicing and thanksgiving.”

They proceeded on into the valley. Thomas Bullock continued:

We descended a gentle sloping table land to a lower level where the soil & grass improve in appearance. As we progressed down the valley, small clumps of dwarf oak and willows appear and the wheat grass grows 6 or 7 feet high. Many different kinds of grass appear, some being 10 or 12 feet high. After wading thro’ thick grass for some distance, we found a place bare enough for a camping ground, the grass being only knee deep, but very thick; we camped on the banks of a beautiful little stream which was surrounded by very tall grass.³⁶

William Clayton recorded: “At this place, the land is black and looks rich, sandy enough to make it good to work. The grass grows high and thick on the ground and is well mixed with nice green rushes. Feed here for our teams is very plentiful and good and the water is also good.”

Orson Pratt and his company returned. The large pioneer company gathered around a campfire to hear his report. He said that his exploration group had found a good spot to plant crops by a creek [City Creek] a few miles to the north. They enjoyed hearing news of the hot springs. A company council meeting was held at Willard Richards’ wagon. It was decided to move to the place found by Orson Pratt in the morning. Also, two men, John Pack and Joseph Matthews, would be sent back to make a report to Brigham Young. The rest would start plowing and planting about ten acres of potatoes.

On this historic first evening in the valley, the men talked about their new home. William Clayton concluded the day with: “The evening was fine and pleasant and the night feels much warmer than in the ravines of the mountains.” Norton Jacob wrote: “We have here mild summer weather. Serene atmosphere; a most beautiful clear sky, with an excessive dry climate and arid soil. If it could receive timely rains, it would be one of the most beautiful fertile regions on the face of the earth.”

All the pioneers noted some disappointment that there was not very much timber in the valley. They realized that they would have to make homes of brick and stone.

Orson Pratt, Willard Richards, and George A. Smith completed a letter that would be taken back to Brigham Young. It included:

The brethren have done a great deal of labor on the road for our Pres. & his company to come over, but after so many wagons passing we presume you will find some repairing necessary, & should you find it very bad we hope you will look upon our labors with a lenient eye, for we have tried to do the best we could. . . . Brothers Pratt & Smith & seven other horsemen explored the valley north of this as far as possible for lime & met the camp on their return at this point. They report some beautiful creeks north of this about 4 miles, whence we propose to remove in the morning & prepare for planting a short distance north of that point. The land becomes more barren; warm, hot sulphur, poison & a variety of other spring around. . . . Timber can hardly be said to be scarce in this region for there is scarcely enough of it to be named, & sage is as scarce as timber, so that if you want to raise sage & greese wood here you had better bring the seed with you from the mountains. In many places the grass, rushes &c. Are 10 feet high, but no more. Mammoth crickets abound in the borders of the valley. There are some sand hill cranes and karobs feed abundant, and of the best quality; water in the creeks passably good. We hardly need enter into particulars at this time as we anticipate you will be here in a day or two and see for yourself and see much more than we have had time to look at. Our prayers are in your behalf continually, that you may be strong in spirit & in boday & come to us speedily.

Rear Company in East Canyon, Utah:

While most of the pioneers were reaching their new valley home, Brigham Young, Heber C. Kimball, Wilford Woodruff, and the rest of the small rear company spent a hard day traveling up East Canyon. Wilford Woodruff wrote: “We crossed the creek eleven times in going 8 miles & the worst 8 miles we have had on the journey. Br. [James] Case smashed one of his hind waggon wheels to peaces & we had to wait 2 hours to bring his oxen up.” Elder Woodruff caught two trout in the creek while waiting. The sick men were feeling better.

They found the letter left by Orson Pratt two days earlier which included:

To Willard Richards, G. A. Smith or any of the Saints: From this point it is five miles west to the summit of the dividing ridge [Big Mountain]. The road will be of a moderate descent, and considerable better than the one you have passed over for a few miles back. The ravine up which you will go is without water, except two or three small springs, which soon loose themselves beneath the sol. You will pass through groves of quaking asp, balsam, and cottonwood, more than you have seen for many days.

Near the Green River, Wyoming

The Kearny detachment met many emigrants heading to Oregon. Private Nathaniel Jones met an old acquaintance, Orlando Strickland. The detachment reached the Green River and traveled nearly all night.

Mormon Ferry, Wyoming:

Two buffalo were spotted toward the mountains in the morning. Luke Johnson and Eric Glines went after then and returned in the late afternoon with some of the meat. A company of ten men from Oregon arrived. They were heading back to the States with about forty ponies and mules. James Davenport stated his intentions to go back to Winter Quarters. He offered to pilot this company back to Council Bluffs if they would sell him a horse. Seeing that James Davenport was about to leave, William Empey, the appointed leader at that time at the ferry said that they must divide up their recent earnings. It amounted to $29.85 for each man. Brother Davenport, who had brought in much of the money through his blacksmithing, accused the brethren of robbing him of his earnings. He neglected to consider that the other men did the cooking, built his fires, and herded his cattle. And not all of the money had been earned through blacksmithing. They tried to convince Brother Davenport and even bought some of the things he could not take with him. Still, he was dissatisfied.

On the North Platte River, Nebraska:

Dead carcasses of thirteen buffalo were spotted, indicating that there were probably Indians nearby. Jesse W. Crosby wrote:

At midday we came in sight of 100 or 110 Indian Lodges. We were no sooner in camp at evening, than they came running on horseback to our camp, about 100 in number. Report rang through the camp that a body of Indians were coming with a Red Flag, but on near approach it proved to be the Stars and Stripes. They are of the Sioux nation ‑‑ the neatest and most cleanly Indians I ever saw. They were friendly; we gave them a feast of bread etc. After firing a cannon, the Indians retired to their lodges about 2 miles distance.

Patty Sessions noted that these were the first Indians that the second company had seen since leaving Winter Quarters. She added: “We have fired the cannon and one six‑shooter for them to see and hear, gave them some bread and they feasted, rode round the camp and then we rang the [Nauvoo] bell, our men paraded and motioned to them to go away.”

Winter Quarters, Nebraska:

Luman Israel Calkins, age one year, died of consumption. He was the son of Luman H. and Methitabel Russell Calkins.

Council Bluffs, Iowa:

A son, Alfred Welker, was born to James and Annie Pugh Welker.³⁷

Near Los Angeles, California:

Jefferson Hunt led a company of fifty‑one former battalion soldiers out of their camp and headed toward San Francisco, along the coastal route of El Camino Real. Other companies left to follow a route through the central valleys. Levi Hancock moved three miles north of the fort and camped on the San Gabriel River. He was hunting for his horses. Robert S. Bliss and the others who were part of an advance company passed through a valley, reached San Fernando, and camped at the foot of some mountains. A few more men arrived from Los Angeles with news that most of the 164 men led by Levi Hancock would be underway on the following day.

Sources:

William Clayton’s Journal, 306‑12; Watson, ed., The Orson Pratt Journals, 454‑55, 555; “Norton Jacob Journal,” typescript, 107‑8; “Erastus Snow Journal Excerpts,” Improvement Era 15:408‑09; Autobiography of John Brown, 78; Bagley, ed., The Pioneer Camp of the Saints, 231‑32; “Levi Jackman Autobiography,” typescript, BYU, 40; Kenney, ed., Wilford Woodruff’s Journal, 3:232; “The Journal of Nathaniel V. Jones,” Utah Historical Quarterly, 4:21; Hoshide & Bagley, eds., “The 1847 Donner Camp Diary of Levi Hancock”; “The Journal of Robert S. Bliss,” Utah Historical Quarterly, 4:111‑12; “Jesse W. Crosby Journal,” typescript, BYU, 37‑8; Smart, ed., Mormon Midwife, 92; Howard Egan Diary, Pioneering the West, 100-01

Friday, July 23, 1847

Salt Lake Valley, Utah:

John Pack and Joseph Matthews left in the morning to give a report to Brigham Young regarding the arrival of the pioneers in the valley. Thomas Bullock included a chart of distances that estimated Winter Quarters as 1,073 miles from Salt Lake Valley.

At the same time, the main camp moved on to “the final location” on the banks of City Creek. The soil was good by the creek and the grass was about four feet high and thick.³⁸

As soon as the camp was formed, the pioneers were called together for a special meeting. Orson Pratt stated that they had been striving for two years to reach this place. He said that they had been greatly blessed in their journey and he proposed that they return their thanks to their Heavenly Father. They all united in a prayer. Orson Pratt thanked the Lord for their preservation and prosperity. He then asked the Lord to bless their labors and to send rain on the land for the crops they would be planting. Elder Pratt consecrated and dedicated themselves and the land to the Lord.

Willard Richards spoke about the need to work faithfully and diligently to plant the potatoes, corn, beans, peas, buckwheat, turnips, and other crops in the ground. He mentioned that in times past there had been a spirit of selfishness among the camp that must now be thrown aside. All must go to work to put in seeds, taking no thought as to who would be the ones to eat the fruits of the labor. If they disputed as to who should eat the crops, their labors would not be blessed. He made reference to the Donner‑Reed party, who quarrelled among themselves and ended up starving. It would be worse for the pioneers unless they worked together for those who would follow after them. Other speakers at this historic meeting included Shadrach Roundy, Seth Taft, Stephen Markham, Robert Crow, and Albert Carrington.

The meeting ended and the men went to work. Committees were appointed to do the various work. Shadrach Roundy, Seth Taft, Stephen Markham, Robert Crow, and Albert Carrington were appointed to find a place to plant the crops. Charles Harper, Charles Shumway,³⁹ and Elijah Newman were put on a committee to stock plows and drags, and enlist men to assist them. Henson Walker,⁴⁰ William Wardsworth⁴¹ and John Brown were to be in charge of moving and rigging up the scythes. Stephen Markham was appointed to attend to the teams and make sure a fresh set of cattle was hitched up every four hours. Almon Williams was asked to oversee the making of a coal pit. George A. Smith asked the men to only use dead timber for their cooking, to leave the live trees alone.

William Clayton wrote:

The brethren immediately rigged three plows and went to plowing a little northeast of the camp;⁴² another party w