Grand Canyon 100

October 12-13, 2006

Davy Crockett

“33 hours of fun and 6 hours of torture”

The Grand Canyon is truly a wonder of the world. To run through it is a cherished experience. I have run six previous double crossings (rim-to-rim-to-rim) and believed I was ready to attempt a quad crossing or double double (rim-to-rim-to-rim-to-rim-to-rim). Several people (probably fewer than ten) have accomplished this feat before. Jim Nelson broke the speed record on November 6, 1999, with a time of 22:48. Previous to this, Wally Shiel established the quad record on October 4, 1987 with a time of 24:45. A typical quad using the South Kaibab trail is about 88 miles. I didn’t want to do just a typical quad, nor go after any speed records. Instead I wanted to add some variation to the route, cover some trails I hadn’t seen yet, and make sure I covered at least 100 miles. I would probably be the first person to cover 100 miles in a 4-crossing run.

I knew that I should not take such an adventure lightly. Each year several people die in the canyon from falls, exposure, flash floods, or sheer stupidity. I had no desire to be an entry in the “Death in Grand Canyon” book. Most of these chronicled deaths are young males who think they are invincible. Too many people are foolish in the canyon. They underestimate their abilities or go there when it is hot. Those who die of exposure usually take too little water and end up leaving the trail in a desperate attempt to try to shortcut to the river. I have been to the bottom of the canyon twelve times now, so I knew what cautions should be taken to ensure my safety.

For example, in 1996, the National Park Service (NPS) rangers performed 482 searches and rescues involving 377 injured or ill people, 18 of whom died. More than 700 people have died in the canyon. More than 600 of these have been below the rim. Over 75 deaths have been “environmental deaths” including heat exposure. There have been about 100 deaths from falls. Solo hiking increases the tragic odds of death in the canyon. A canyon expert, George Steck puts it, “A solo hiker often has a fool for a companion.”

My Planned Route

I planned to start from the North Kaibab trailhead at the North Rim. The first crossing would include an ascent on the South Kaibab Trail to the South Rim. From there, I wanted to run about six miles along the rim to the Bright Angel Trailhead. For the return crossing, I would descend to Indian Garden and then take the Tonto Trail east to the South Kaibab Trail. From there I would go to Phantom Ranch and ascend back up to the North Rim via the North Kaibab trail. The first double crossing would be about 53 miles. For the second double crossing, I would do my normal route via North Kaibab trail and Bright Angel trails. The total adventure would be about 100.4 miles.

Training

I have had a good injury-free running year. My training regiment during the summer has consisted mostly of long runs or races with resting and walking between the events. I have completed four tough 100-mile races, including two 100-mile races in the past month. I have trained/raced 1,952 miles thus far in 2006. This adventure would put me over the 2,000 mile-mark.

Planning

I would have three major “aid stations” along the way. My car at mile 53, and Bright Angel Lodge (South Rim) at miles 27 and 77. I needed to make sure I arrived at Bright Angel Lodge when it was open so I could buy food. Phantom Ranch, at the bottom of the canyon has a store (The Canteen). It is open 8:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m. and 8:00 p.m. – 10:00 p.m. (Arizona time – no daylight saving time). I decided to not depend on this store as an aid station. Instead I would bring down enough food both times for my return ascents. In order to guarantee that I would arrive at the South Rim during the day both times, I needed to start my run during the morning. I planned on a 10:00 a.m. start.

Temperature was also a factor in my planning. I charted the probable temperature to help me plan what clothes I needed along the way. During the first crossing the temperature would be between 50-75 degrees. (North Rim 50, Phantom Ranch 75, South Rim 65. I had no need for warm clothes during that crossing. But for the return crossing, the temperature would get cold as I ascended back to the North Rim, dipping down to about 34 degrees by the time I returned to my car. Therefore, I needed to stash some warm clothes somewhere on the north side during my first crossing. The second double crossing would start cold (about 32 degrees) but would be warm by the time I reached Cottonwood Campground. I probably would not need the warm clothes for the rest of the trip because the temperature would not dip below 40 degrees.

For safety, I would bring down an emergency blanket in case I had trouble and needed to spend the night at the bottom. I also decided to keep my flashlight with me at all times. I knew that with the 100-mile distance, the unexpected can and would happen. I could get injured from a fall or from the stress of the long miles or huge elevation gains and losses. I could get sick and not be able to eat. My plans needed to expect the unexpected. Water would not be a problem except for the South Kaibab Trail. For that ascent during the afternoon, I would need three water bottles. For all other times, two bottles would be sufficient. The faucets would be on along the North Kaibab and Bright Angel trails.

How fast did I plan to travel? I knew that I wouldn’t really try to race this adventure. I wanted to take time to enjoy the scenery, take plenty of pictures, and talk to other hikers. But I also didn’t want to be out there too long. The longer it took, the more pain I would feel in my feet. I planned for a 34-hour adventure. I wanted to try to do the first crossing fast, but would back off for the rest of the adventure. Below is my planning chart.

Location	Miles	Split	Clock	Elapsed	store	Temperature	Light	Plans
North Kaibab TH	0	0.0	10:00 AM	0:00:00		50		10:00
Cottonwood CG	6.9	6.9	11:30 AM	1:30:00		73		stash warm stuff
Phantom Ranch	14.0	7.1	12:45 PM	2:45:00	open	80
Tonto Trail	16.7	2.7	1:45 PM	3:45:00		80
S Kaibab TH	21.1	4.4	3:00 PM	5:00:00		65
B. Angel TH	26.9	5.8	4:30 PM	6:30:00	open	65		eat dinner
Indian Garden CG	31.5	4.6	6:30 PM	8:30:00		65	dark
S. Kaibab Jct	36.1	4.6	8:00 PM	10:00:00		65	dark
Phantom Ranch	38.8	2.7	8:45 PM	10:45:00	open	65	dark
Cottonwood CG	45.9	7.1	10:30 PM	12:30:00		55	dark	get warm stuff
North Kaibab TH	52.8	6.9	1:30 AM	15:30:00		34	dark	eat pleny
Cottonwood CG	59.7	6.9	4:00 AM	18:00:00		47	dark	stash warm stuff
Phantom Ranch	66.8	7.1	6:00 AM	20:00:00	closed	55	dawn
Indian Garden CG	72.0	5.2	8:30 AM	22:30:00		60
B. Angel TH	76.6	4.6	10:30 AM	24:30:00	open	50		eat brunch
Indian Garden CG	81.2	4.6	12:00 PM	26:00:00		65
Phantom Ranch	86.4	5.2	1:30 PM	27:30:00	open	75
Cottonwood CG	93.5	7.1	5:00 PM	31:00:00		75		get warm stuff
North Kaibab TH	100.4	6.9	8:00 PM	34:00:00		40	dark

What to take? During daylight, I would carry two hand-held bottles. In my waistpack I would carry a third bottle during the first double crossing, and carry my flashlight in my other bottle slot. In my two pouches on the waistpack I would carry food (Hammer Gel flask, Instant Breakfast, Powdered Gatorade, Nutterbutters, Twists, and beef jerky.) I also would bring a camera. In my racing shorts pockets I would carry my pills (S-caps, Advil, Tums, etc.), MP3 player, minirecorder, and toilet paper. To haul down some warm clothes (long-sleeve biking shirt, gloves, hat, and emergency blanket), I took a small camelback and stuffed the clothes into the pocket that normally would hold the bladder.

Why do this?

This question is always asked by someone I come across during one of my long adventures. I have several reasons.

To face and accomplish a challenge with myself. In this case the challenge is not a race against competitors, or even a race against the clock. The challenge is mine alone. I must endure pain and adjust along the way to find comfort. My knowledge, skill, and training will help me find comfort rather than just endure torture. I need to analyze the physical signals along the way and make the proper adjustments. If I didn’t, I will fail the challenge.
To observe the creations of God and the effects of nature. In the Grand Canyon the two come together in a spectacular way. There are so many sights and sounds to see.
To clear my mind from worldly stresses.
To experience an amazing adventure. Despite careful planning, the canyon will dictate my experience.

First Crossing, North Kaibab to South Kaibab (7:30 a.m – 2:00 p.m.)

In order to avoid a long seven-hour drive before running, I drove halfway the night before and attempted to get some sleep at a motel. I awoke at 3:30 a.m and decided to forgo attempts for more sleep and instead “get this show on the road.” I arrived at the North Kaibab Trailhead at about 7 a.m. and made my final preparations.

North Kaibab Trailhead

The morning was beautiful. There was not a cloud in the sky to obstruct the sun as it made its appearance. It was nippy outside. The cars at the trailhead all had frost on their windshields. I shivered in my shorts and short-sleeves as I made final preparations. I knew I would become warm very soon once I started to descend into the canyon. A few yards away, some mules stirred in their pen as they observed my presence. As I gathered my things, a couple of muleskinners arrived to outfit the mules for a morning trip into the canyon.

Trail through forest of pines and aspens

At about 7:30 a.m., I started my now familiar run through the pine and aspen forest at the top of the North Rim. The trail quickly headed downward and I began to prance down the steep switchbacks into the canyon, losing hundreds of feet of elevation in just a matter of a few minutes. I quickly came upon day hikers and backpackers who had started their journey before me. Some heard me coming, others were startled as I came near. I greeted each of them as I passed. At Supai Tunnel, I observed hikers taking a rest, filling their drinking containers. I was pleased to see that the water faucet was still turned on. That would mean that I could refill there on my return trip. The lighting on the trail was challenging. There was a mixture of bright sunshine at a low angle and dark shade. Because of this, I was having some difficulty navigating through the rocks.

After only 30 minutes into my adventure, the unexpected happened. I knew that I should expect something unexpected, but I didn’t think it would happen so soon. It was taking me awhile to warm up my legs, so my initial pace was relatively slow. I decided that it was time to push the pace faster. As I did, I passed an older couple who gave me that look which could only mean, “Is this guy crazy or what? He’s running down the trail!” After I passed them, I reached the next sharp switchback corner and put my foot on a rock in attempt to cut the corner a little bit. My foot slid right off the rock and down I went! I immediately knew I was injured, but I was more concerned about how foolish I looked falling in full view of this couple. The fall was a bad one, hard enough to pop off the top of my water bottle.

I quickly picked myself up, put on the top of my water bottle, and again continued running down the trail. After I was out of view from the couple, I slowed and took an injury inventory. I first noticed a huge bump the size of golf ball coming out of the side of my arm. I checked the rotation and extension of my arm and determined that no bones were broken nor key muscles injured. It looked like a bad contusion to a fleshy part of my arm. Second, I noticed a bad gash near my left knee. The blood was flowing and making a mess. Third, I felt pain in my upper right chest. I probably bruised a rib and noticed blood oozing through my shirt. I was thankful that I had been carrying a bottle in each hand. The bottles took most of the force and I only had a few minor scrapes on my knuckles.

Ok, so the unexpected already happened. I determined that I was still feeling well and could continue on. I did question whether or not this would cause me to stop short of my goal. I backed off the pace, vowed to be more careful, and took it easy as I recovered from the shock of the fall. In an attempt to bring down the swelling in my arm, at times I held my arm above my head as I ran down the trail. After about a half hour the pain set in and I determined that my biggest concern would be the chest injury. The jarring from running fast down the trail increased the pain. I hoped that things would calm down and they did.

Loud waterfall in Bright Angel Creek

After crossing the first bridge over Bright Angel Creek, near the Aiken house (mile 6), I stashed my small pack with warm clothes behind a bush. It was nice to be free of the excess weight. As I was approaching Cottonwood Campground, I pulled out my minirecorder and dictated my adventure thus far. I mentioned: “The temperature has warmed up, probably in the 50’s, it feels OK. The trail is somewhat rough because of recent runoff and all the mules. It is rougher than I have seen it before.”

Trail crossing wash

As I ran below Cottonwood Campground, I noticed the effects of recent flooding from the past week of heavy rain. In some locations I could see that the water had run down the trail about a foot deep. When I crossed Wall Creek, I could see wet evidence that the creek had been thigh-deep earlier in the week. Bright Angel Creek was running high enough requiring a detour through a marshy beaver pond area. I did my best to keep my feet dry, but didn’t succeed. Soon I descended into The Box, a narrow four-mile winding canyon. I recorded, “The sun is peaking through the deep canyon that I’m in. I’m seeing plenty of day hikers and backpackers going up or down. I’m in a narrow gorge. The trail is just above the fast running creek. This is my favorite section of the crossing because of the gentle slope. At this time of the morning it is nice and cool, you can run through here pretty fast.” I reached the next bridge over the creek and took the next picture.