Grand Canyon 100 II

North Kaibab to Hermits Rest and back

November 24-25, 2006

Davy Crockett

The Grand Canyon again beckoned me to run in its depths. With the road to the North Rim still open and a long Thanksgiving weekend, I took the opportunity to travel one more time this season to experience this wonder of the world. I hoped to accomplish my 10^th double crossing. But this time, I wanted to do a more extreme variation. Instead of doing the typical double crossing along the corridor trails (Bright Angel or South Kaibab), I planned to accomplish probably the first double crossing from North Kaibab to Hermits Rest and back.

Planned Route

A direct double crossing from North Kaibab to Hermits Rest and back would be about 77 miles. About 39 of those miles are on “unmaintained” backcountry trails outside the heavily traveled corridor trails. The Tonto Trail and Hermit Trail are much more remote and rough. The risks are higher for a solo adventure like this. I understood the dangers well. But I considered that because of the Thanksgiving weekend, I would probably run into many backpackers using the Tonto Trail to explore the region west of Bright Angel Trail. The temperature would be ideal. I should experience inner-canyon temperatures between 60-35 degrees F.

Planned route (in green)

Since I would be running 77 miles, why not round it up to 100 miles? I could accomplish my 6^th 100-miler of the year. I looked at various alternatives to stretch the run out and decided on this plan: I would do a direct run from the North Rim to Hermits Rest and then if I still felt strong, I would add additional miles on the Tonto Trail by doing an out-and-back further west to Boucher Creek and then run all the way east to Cremation Creek before heading back to the North Rim. That would be more than 50 miles of running on the Tonto Trail. If I was successful, this would be the second time I had run 100 miles in one stretch in the Grand Canyon. (See my double-double (4 trips) crossing.)

I carefully planned my run. This double-crossing would require filtering water in creeks and springs, and I would have to carry all of my food. I probably would be able to buy something at Hermits Rest, but I didn’t want to count on it. Usually I run doubles with just a waist pack, but this time I would add a 6-pound day pack. Included in the pack would be some emergency items: A blanket if I needed to bivouac, a CD for signaling, and a whistle. If I was going any more remote, I would rent a satellite phone, but I felt I would be fine because I should still see people on the trail during the day. I would take food/powder/gel enough to intake 4,000 calories.

Planning Chart

Location	Miles	split	clock	time	water	temp ºF	light
North Kaibab TH	0	0	4:00 AM	0:00:00		20	Dark
Cottonwood CG	6.9	6.9	5:30 AM	1:30:00	water	40	Dark
Phantom Ranch	14	7.1	6:55 AM	2:55:00	water	45	Dawn
Indian Garden CG	19.2	5.2	8:25 AM	4:25:00	water	45
Salt Creek	26.5	7.3	10:15 AM	6:15:00		55
Monument Creek	29.9	3.4	11:15 AM	7:15:00	creek	60
Hermit Trail	32.2	2.3	11:55 AM	7:55:00		65
Santa Maria Springs	36.4	4.2	2:25 PM	10:25:00	spring	60
Hermits Rest	38.6	2.2	2:55 PM	10:55:00	water	55
Santa Maria Springs	40.6	2	3:35 PM	11:35:00	spring	55
Hermit Creek	46.2	5.6	5:50 PM	13:50:00	creek	60	Dusk
Boucher Creek	51.5	5.3	7:20 PM	15:20:00	creek	55	Dark
Hermit Creek	56.8	5.3	8:50 PM	16:50:00	creek	50	Dark
Monument Creek	60.6	3.8	9:55 PM	17:55:00	creek	45	Dark
Salt Creek	64	3.4	10:55 PM	18:55:00		45	Dark
Plateau Point	71.3	7.3	12:55 AM	20:55:00		45	Dark
Indian Garden CG	72.8	1.5	1:20 AM	21:20:00	water	40	Dark
S. Kaibab	77.6	4.8	2:35 AM	22:35:00		40	Dark
Cremation Creek	80.2	2.6	3:15 AM	23:15:00		35	Dark
S. Kaibab	82.8	2.6	4:05 AM	24:05:00		35	Dark
Phantom Ranch	85.7	2.9	5:00 AM	25:00:00	water	40	Dark
Cottonwood CG	92.8	7.1	7:00 AM	27:00:00	water	40	Dawn
North Kaibab TH	99.7	6.9	10:30 AM	30:30:00		30

I carefully considered what sections of the run would have sunlight. If I timed it right, the sun would be up on the sections of trail that I had never seen before. I hoped to ascend and descend the difficult Hermit Trail during the daylight.

Hermit Trail History

My ascent up the South Rim would be on the Hermit Trail. The Hermit Trail, like many other Grand Canyon trails, began as an Indian route. The trail was improved by prospectors and was originally know as Horsethief Trail. A prospector, Dan Hogan, began construction of the modern Hermit Trail in 1896. The trail was further improved by the Santa Fe Railroad about fifteen years later. They used this trail as an entry into the Canyon in an effort to bypass the toll that was currently being charged for use of the Bright Angel Trail. A small camp, Hermit Camp, was constructed at the end of the trail near Hermit Creek. Hermit Camp provided a stop-over point for parties headed for the river. Visitors were brought down on mules while an aerial tram lowered supplies from the rim. The camp was active until the 1930's. At that point the National Park Service had acquired the Bright Angel Trail. With trailheads closer to the railhead, the Santa Fe decided to move their tourist operations into the Grand Canyon Village area. Hermit Camp is now abandoned and the structures have been removed. Some of the foundations still remain and can be seen from many points along the Hermit.

Don’t try this at home kids

I worry that some unprepared readers may want to attempt this route too. This adventure requires rugged 100-mile ultra-level fitness and advanced experience in the Grand Canyon. Timing is critical. I would never attempt a long run on the Tonto trail in the heat. Springs and creeks need to be flowing. Late November to March would be the safest time. Attempting it in May and June would be foolish. For my run, the temperature would be perfect, never reaching more than 60 degrees.

Recently, marathon runner Margaret Bradley died during a run on the Tonto Trail, just east of South Kaibab Trail, in the Cremation Creek Drainage. This 24-year-old University of Chicago medical student attempted a 27-mile run down Grandview Trail, across Tonto Trail, and up South Kaibab. A few months earlier Bradley had placed 31st of all women at the Boston Marathon 3:04:54. She was ill-prepared and attempted it on July 9, 2004, in the heat of the summer. She only took with her two water bottles, some fruit, and three protein bars. At that time of the year all the seasonal water sources were dry. Temperatures in the Cremation Creek Drainage likely reached 120 degrees. Her coach later said, "I think growing up in New England and living in Chicago, she didn't have an appreciation for the heat there." Halfway into the run, she and her companion, Brian, ran low on water and decided to separate. Brian stayed in some shade and Margaret went on to get help. Apparently when she reached Cremation Creek, she decided to hike down the drainage toward the river instead continuing up the trail just a couple more miles to South Kaibab. After 14 hours, Brian made it out of the canyon , but Margaret, far off the trail was found dead two days later. A memorial 10K is now held in Chicago to remember her.

North Rim to Indian Garden (miles 0-19.2)

After a wonderful Thanksgiving dinner with my family, I packed up my car, bid goodbye and started the drive south to the North Rim. I made good time and arrived in six hours, just after midnight. I experienced lonely feelings of isolation. The trailhead parking lot was empty and I had not seen any cars on the highway to the canyon since Fredonia. I was really on my own.

I attempted to get some rest in my car at the trailhead, but sleep wouldn’t come. Finally I decided to get an early start. Why not instead take a nap on the trail tomorrow night when I would really be sleepy? I gathered my things and checked the temperature. It was above freezing, so I decided to leave my warmest clothes behind. At 2:00 a.m., I started my run down the North Kaibab trail. This was my 10^th time running down the trail in the past 18 months, so I was becoming very familiar with every turn.

Near the bridge over Roaring Spring Canyon, I took out my mini-recorder and said, “Feeling real good – strong and rested. Going down, the only noise that I can hear is the breeze through the trees. The stars are out. Orion is blazing overhead. I can see the dark rim against the starlit sky. The rim gets higher and higher, covering the stars as I get deeper. It is pleasant. I’ll turn my tunes on to give me some company. It is taking a little while to get used to this pack. I’m taking it kind of slow on this upper section. I don’t want to do anything stupid. It is going to be a long, long day. It looks like it will be a beautiful day.”

My junk on the table at the Roaring Spring house

I stayed right on schedule, arriving at Cottonwood Campground at 3:30 a.m. and at Phantom Ranch at 4:55 a.m. When I reached the house below Roaring Spring, I shed my jacket, hat, and gloves. It was getting warm. At Cottonwood Campground, I planned to stash some food for the return trip in one of the campground metal containers, but I was dismayed to discover that somehow the bag had fallen out of my pack. (I later found it in my car.) This was troubling, but I knew that I could buy some more food in the afternoon at Hermits Rest at the South Rim. I continued on and really enjoyed my run through The Box, along Bright Angel Creek. Some hikers were stirring at Phantom Ranch, getting ready for the day ahead, but the trail ahead of me was dark and quiet.

When I reached the silver bridge over the Colorado River, I recorded: “I’m over the Colorado River (can hear the noise of the river). I look down to the river and it is black as black can be, you can’t see a thing down there. Quite a contrast with a few weeks ago when the full moon was out and I could see the whole canyon and the river flowing… It feels like it is about 50 degrees, a little chill, but nothing bad. Just a real pleasant temperature for a run.”

My climb up the trail to Indian Garden went well. I didn’t see anyone on the trail. As usual, the temperature dropped as I entered the drainage before Indian Garden but I knew it would warm up once I ran out of the drainage. I drank plenty and filled both my water bottles. For the next 55 miles or so I would have to filter water from creeks along the way.

Indian Garden to Hermits Rest (mile 19.2-38.6)

As I left Indian Garden I almost ran right into a deer. It wasn’t startled and didn’t run away. I soon arrived at the West Tonto Trail. It was my first experience on the trail and it was so good to be off of the high-traffic mule trails. I started to really have a blast running away from the developed region of the canyon, out into the remote untamed country. I turned off my flashlight at 7:00 a.m. The magnificent colors of the canyon started to fill my eyes. Clouds had rolled in during the past hour.

The Battleship (ridge between Indian Garden and Horn Creek)

At 7:19 a.m. I pulled out my recorder and said, “I’m nearing Horn Creek. Boy, running on this Tonto Trail is just like heaven! It is so good to get away from the corridor trails with their mule stuff. This trail is soft and technical. There is a lot of brush on the side, but because I have my long pants on, it isn’t a problem. It gives you a desolate feeling. There is nothing here. The little trees still have some leaves on, but they are golden and beautiful. The Tonto Trail weaves in and out of drainages and rolls up and down. Up above I can see the rim including the remnants of a mining operation – probably the uranium mine that now has polluted the water here. The red rock is gorgeous as the sun starts to cast light this way. Looking down is an amazing sight! The gorge, the cliffs with water stains. The contrast of green and red. This is amazing!”

When I reached Horn Creek, I was very surprised to see someone camping there. They were still asleep in their tent. I hoped that they weren’t drinking the radioactive water that the guidebooks warn you against. The silence in this canyon was astonishing. At times I would stop just to listen to nothing. It was peaceful stillness. No wind, no birds, just the sound of blood pumping in my body.

The Colorado River comes into view

I reached Salt Creek (mile 26.5) at 8:44 a.m. There was some water running in the creek. I still had a water bottle almost full, so I didn’t stop to pump water yet. I would wait until Monument Creek. As the trail went away from the drainage, it came much closer to the Colorado River presenting me with stunning views. At 9:18 a.m. I laughed with delight into my recorder: “The Colorado River came into view with a beautiful gorge heading west. It’s just amazing. The cliffs are steep down into the gorge. Up here on the Tonto Trail it is peaceful and cool. I’m just having a wonderful time! The rays of light are appearing and the blue sky is coming out. I’m not moving very fast because there is just so much to see. If I run fast, I start missing things. This is just incredible! Wow! I’m looking down into the gorge. Oh, Wow! I’m getting out on the edge a little closer. I can see the Colorado River meandering down there about 1,000 feet down.”

I continued on and soon ran into another human, a guy backpacking toward me. I really startled him when I called out a greeting. He wondered where I was coming from. I explained that I started at the North Rim early in the morning. He was impressed and said I was making very good time. He had just come up from Granite Rapids and told me that I would have a great view of them around the next bend. We wished each other well and I continued my run to the west.

Desert Bighorn Sheep with Colorado River and Granite Rapids in the background

As Granite Rapids came into view, I pulled out my camera to set up for a picture. To my delight, a desert bighorn sheep appeared on the trail ahead. It didn’t fear me at all and started to approach me. It circled around me and came into position with the river in the background. I snapped the amazing picture above. Wow! I thanked the sheep for the great photo and it pranced away on the ridge. Can it get any better than this?

The sun started to peak over the rim but the temperature continued to be very pleasant for running. For some reason my shoulder started to hurt quiet a bit, like it was partially separated. This was puzzling because I had not taken any falls. I guessed that the constant jarring from running must have pulled something. Well, there was nothing I could do except put up with the pain and try to restrict its movement. (In a few hours it really wasn’t a problem anymore.)

Monument Creek bed

As I was descending into Monument Creek (mile 29.9), I could see some backpackers on the other side. I took a long stop at the creek to filter water, eat, and fix a gaiter. I was distressed to discover that my second flask of Hammer Gel was missing. I hoped that I wouldn’t run low on food. Peace and quiet was disappearing because I was nearing the zone that allowed planes and helicopters to fly over the canyon. As I ran on the other side of the creek, I again saw the backpackers. They were taking pictures by the huge monolith that Monument Creek got its name for. I ran down to them and said hi. There were six of them and they were all speaking German. I had them take a picture of me (it didn’t turn out), and then I continued up a significant climb out of Monument Creek Canyon.

View down Monument Creek to Granite Rapids

As I neared the Hermit Trail, I saw a group of young backpackers resting on a ridge. They watched me as I ran up a hill. I’m sure I was an odd sight, a runner coming from east with only a small pack. We exchanged greetings and I explained that I had come from the North Rim. They had just come down from Hermits Rest on the South Rim. They wondered where I was heading. I explained that I was going up to the rim and then going to head back to the North Rim. They looked at me with stunned looks, trying to comprehend what I was saying. I didn’t stay long and ran on ahead.

Looking down toward Hermit Rapids

I arrived at Hermit Trail (mile 32.2) at 9:55 a.m. I decided to stash my pack behind a boulder so I wouldn’t have to haul it up to the rim. As I pushed on ahead up the steep Hermit Trail, I started to worry. This is typical during a long run. I will worry about silly things. My worry was whether the kids on the ridge had seen me stash my day pack. What if they went and took it away? I was now up too far to turn back. I should have kept it with me. It had my warm clothes, the food I needed for the return trip and my flashlights. I considered that it was foolish for me to be going up to the rim and back without a flashlight. I had plenty of time before dusk but what if I twisted an ankle coming down? I vowed to be more careful in the future, making sure I always had emergency items with me.

View on Hermit Trail

The Hermit Trail was an interesting experience. I can’t say that I really enjoyed it. It was a lot of work. The trail was very rugged and unmaintained. There was plenty of boulder hopping and route-finding, looking for the next cairn. Some sections were nice, but there wasn’t much running happening.

Halfway up Hermit Trail

The views were not as impressive as Bright Angel because the trail took you deep into a side canyon that covered views of the canyon below. I ran into many backpackers making their way down the trail and even some day hikers as I came closer to the top. It was hard work.

View from Hermits Rest

Hermits Rest to Indian Garden (miles 38.6-72.8)

Finally I reached the top, Hermits Rest (mile 38.6) at 2 p.m. There were probably about 50 people at the top. It was chilly on the rim. I found a snack shop and quickly bought a Coke, a danish, a muffin, and a candy bar. There were some chairs near a warm fireplace in the gift shop, so I took advantage of the warmth as I ate some snacks. I must have looked like a terrible mess. My stop was quick. Too quick. I forgot to call my wife -- something else to worry about.